<?xml version="1.0" encoding="ISO-8859-1" ?>
<rss version="2.0">
<channel>
	<title>www.vintagerotaries.org</title>
	<description>Old School Mazda Forum</description>
	<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php</link>
	<pubDate>Mon, 18 Dec 2006 19:35:02 +0000</pubDate>
	<ttl>10</ttl>
	<item>
		<title>FFF</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=5</link>
		<description><![CDATA[PIC TRY<div id='attach_wrap' class='rounded clearfix'>
	<h4></h4>
	<ul>
		
			<li class=''>
				<a class='resized_img' rel='lightbox[25]' id='ipb-attach-url-2-1283795289-69' href="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=2" title="tub.JPG -  82.65K,  2"><img src="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/uploads/monthly_12_2006/post-1-1166470490_thumb.jpg" id='ipb-attach-img-2-1283795289-69' style='width:100;height:78' class='attach' width="100" height="78" alt="" /></a>
			</li>
		
	</ul>
</div>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 18 Dec 2006 19:35:02 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=5</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Mazda Rebuild Tolerances</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=13</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<a href='http://www.mazdamotorsports.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Tech?storeId=10001' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>http://www.mazdamotorsports.com/webapp/wcs...h?storeId=10001</a>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 19 Dec 2006 00:14:47 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=13</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Everything You Ever Wanted To Know About Mazda Diffs</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=14</link>
		<description><![CDATA[The differentials fitted to early Mazdas can be categorised into three different sizes of diff: Small, Medium and Large. They can also be sub-divided into early and late types. The early type is actually very early - 1500s and 1000s and so on. Capellas are the first cars to have late type diffs. <br />
 <br />
 <strong class='bbc'>Small<br />
 </strong><br />
 These diffs were fitted to all cars with 1500cc and smaller engines. <br />
 1300 - 4.1:1 ratio <br />
 1300cc 808 - 4.1:1 <br />
 RWD 323 - 3.9:1 <br />
 1000 ute - 4.875:1 <br />
 1000 coupe - 4.375:1 <br />
 <br />
 The early 1300s and all 1000s have 18-spline coarse spline axles, as compared to the later cars' 24 fine splines. Most of these early cars also have the raised spigot section in the tail-shaft, which fits into the diff flange, where the later cars all have the raised section as part of the diff flange. These early diffs also have a different (coarse) spline where the flange and pinion shaft join, meaning the flanges cannot be swapped for later model parts. These attributes are shared with all early diffs (inc the medium sized 1500 diffs). <br />
 There are at least two different carrier lengths in these Small diffs. The longer one is roughly equal in length to the short carrier in the medium diffs. These are easily identified by their light build and by the diff housing - the Small diffs have a half-sphere pressed into the back of the housing, where the Medium diffs have a quarter sphere. <br />
 <br />
 These diffs are fine behind the low powered motors they were originally fitted to, but do not cope well with more horse-power. <br />
 The first weak point is the shaft that holds the internal gears in place - it will shear and/or flog out its locating holes and the diff will long longer provide forward movement. It is a self perpetuating problem, in that once there is some slop, it rapidly worsens - as such, a never abused, but worn-out diff will be much weaker than an abused centre in good condition. This problem can happen even with mildly worked, hard driven 1400cc motors. Welding the centre up will eliminate this as a weak point. <br />
 <br />
 This will then expose the next weak point as being the pinion gear. Excessive power and/or abuse will shear teeth off the pinion gear, again resulting in no more forward movement. A (the p word) motor is probably incapable of causing this damage, but even a standard 13B can. <br />
 <br />
 Addition - Apparently 1600cc MX-5s have an updated version of this diff. I have no idea of any further details, however this may be a source of a LSD for these diffs. To the best of my knowledge, the only LSD available for the 1600cc MX-5s is the not-very-good Viscous type. <br />
 I will report back when more info comes to hand. <br />
 <br />
 <strong class='bbc'>Medium<br />
 </strong><br />
 These diff were fitted to all (the p word) powered cars above 1500cc, and all 10A and 12A powered cars. <br />
 1500 wagon - 4.675:1 ratio <br />
 1500 sedan - 4.11:1 <br />
 R100 - 3.7:1 or 3.63:1 <br />
 Capella - 3.9:1 <br />
 RX-2 auto and late 3.9:1 <br />
 RX-2 early manual 3.7:1 <br />
 RX-3 - 3.7:1 <br />
 1600cc 808 - 3.7:1 <br />
 929 - 3.9:1 (later cars had 3.909:1) <br />
 12A RX-4 - 3.9:1 <br />
 121 - 4.11:1 <br />
 626 - 3.9:1 <br />
 929L - 3.7:1 <br />
 E1300 - 4.875:1 <br />
 E1400 -4.44:1 <br />
 E1600 - 4.1 <br />
 E1800 / 2000 - 3.9 <br />
 Most Diesel vans were around 3.9:1 <br />
 1st Generation RX-7 (through 83 ½) - 3.9:1 <br />
 <br />
 Again, the early cars (1500s, some R100s) have 18-spline coarse axles. The S3 RX-7, and the E1400 and larger vans have 26 fine spline axles. These early diffs also have a different (coarse) spline where the flange and pinion shaft join, meaning the flanges cannot be swapped for later model parts. <br />
 All others have 24-fine-spline axles, and fine spline pinions. <br />
 There are two different length carriers in these diffs also. They are generally referred to as 'short' and 'long'. The short is the most common, with the long carriers only fitted (inconsistently) to cars built around 1972 - 1974. <br />
 <br />
 These diffs are adequate for the cars they were fitted to, but serious abuse and/or more power can break them. <br />
 The first weak point is (again) the shaft the internal gears run on. It can flog out its hole and/or break - in either case, once it has happened the diff will no longer provide forward motion. Wear will cause this to happen at a lower power/ abuse thresh-hold. <br />
 As for the Small diffs, welding up the centre will eliminate this weak point. <br />
 After the centre has been welded, these diffs will break axles, rather than damage the Crown wheel and pinion. Burn-outs and serious drag racing launches aside, a welded medium diff will generally be comfortable withstanding around 280- 300 horse-power. <br />
 <br />
 ***Addition - 1800cc MX-5s and NA S4/5 RX-7s have an update of this diff, apparently. The RX-7 version has a much longer pinion shaft, however the MX-5s use earlier style shorter pinion and apparently the CW&P are interchangable with the other cars mentioned here. The stub shafts in both RX-7 and MX-5 are 26-spline, BUT ARE not the same diameter as the 26-spline S3 RX-7 diff. <br />
 Apparently the hemi is about 8mm wider than the earlier version too. <br />
 Most MX-5s have 3.9, or 4.1:1 ratios, although the 6-speed one has a taller ratio (about 3.6:1). <br />
 I will report more on this as I become aware of it. <br />
 <br />
 <strong class='bbc'>Large</strong><br />
 <br />
 These diffs were fitted to the factory 13B powered cars only. <br />
 13B RX-4 - 3.9:1 ratio <br />
 RX-5 - 3.63:1 <br />
 <br />
 Both cars are fitted with 28-spline axles, which are enormously strong. Remembering that Mazda's metallurgy was vastly superior to most Australian and American car companies' in the 1970s, many V8 heads get excited over the smaller diameter, 25-spline axles in assorted Borg Warner diffsâ€¦. <br />
 <br />
 These diffs look very similar to the Medium diffs, but there are a few tell-tale differences. <br />
 From the outside, you can see that four of the eight bolts that hold the carrier into the housing are in different places compared to a Medium diff - this was done to accommodate the larger diameter crown-wheel. In these cars, the diff housings also are fitted with a plate to protect the brake line on the bottom of the right-hand axle tube (this is a feature of all Mazdas factory equipped with single dizzy rotary motors, but is an easy way of identifing the bigger, later RX-4 diffs). In both body shapes, this plate is only fitted to the 13B powered cars, and can be used to identify the "Large" differential. <br />
 Inside, the centres are similar to the Medium centres, but heavily revised. Most obvious is the 4-pinion centre that looks like an LSD. These ARE NOT LSD centres - where a true LSD has a fairly open hemisphere, these 4-pinion centres are almost entirely enclosed, making it impossible to see the workings of the internal gears. <br />
 While the crown-wheel is a (slightly) larger internal diameter compared to the Medium diffs, the PCD of the bolt holes to attach the CW to the Hemisphere is actually a smaller diameter, making it impossible to simply bolt a lower ratio CW onto the 4-pinion hemisphere. <br />
 <br />
 The carriers for these diffs are very similar in length to the length of the short carrier Medium diffs - the Large diff's carrier is about 8mm longer. <br />
 They also have a larger tail-shaft flange, meaning the flange or the tail-shaft must be modified in these cars if you swap diffs. The pinion splines are the same as the Medium diffs', so it is possible to swap flanges between them. <br />
 <br />
 These diffs are almost indestructible. While pre-existing wear may cause other failures, the usual weak point in these diffs is actually the diff housing itself distorting. Penny Brown's RX-4 ran a 10.9 second 0-400m with a braced RX-4 diff in it. In circuit type use, a welded up diff of this type will stretch the bolts that hold the carrier into the housing before causing any other problems. <br />
 <br />
 <strong class='bbc'>LSDs</strong><br />
 <br />
 LSDs were only available for the Medium diffs, although axles and gears to suit 24, 26 and 28 spline axles are available. <br />
 <br />
 The LSDs are available in either road, or race versions. The difference between the two is the ramp rate - the race version ramps up at a linear rate, where the road version starts off much slower and comes on stronger with more movement. A good visualisation is to picture the race version as a "V" shape, and the road version as a "U" shape, with the 'at rest' position being in the middle at the bottom of either. <br />
 <br />
 The general consensus is that the race version is superior for all conditions and that the road version exists only for the lowest common denominator driver (much like the reason why manufacturers make new cars that are chronic understeerers). <br />
 <br />
 <strong class='bbc'><em class='bbc'>-= Examples =-</em></strong><br />
 <br />
 <strong class='bbc'>1)</strong> Fitting an ex-S3 RX-7 LSD centre to a Capella diff. To perform this swap, you would need to fit 24-spline axle gears to the LSD, or have some 26-spline axles made up to suit the Capella. Carrier length could also be an issue, depending on what length carrier the Capella was originally fitted with. <br />
 <strong class='bbc'>2)</strong> Fitting a 4.875:1 centre from a 1000 ute to an 808. This would need the axle gears swapped for 24-spline items, and the 1000's rear tail-shaft yoke swapped onto the 808 tail-shaft. Again carrier length could cause issues with tail-shaft length. <br />
 <strong class='bbc'>3)</strong> Fitting a 4.875:1 E1300 centre to a S1 or S2 RX-7. Straight bolt-in fit, no mods or mixing and match required. <br />
 <strong class='bbc'>4)</strong> Fitting an 4.875:1 LSD centre to a RX-4. Firstly you'd need a 929 diff housing, as the 4.875 carrier will not fit into a housing designed for a Large diff. To that you'd need the LSD hemisphere with the correct axle gears (24-spline for 929 axles, 28-spline for RX-4 axles), and the Large tail-shaft flange fitted to the 4.8 pinion. With these parts, everything should then bolt together. <br />
 <strong class='bbc'>5)</strong> Fitting a 3.9:1 RX-4 centre into a RX-5. Straight bolt-in fit. <br />
 <strong class='bbc'>6)</strong> Fitting a 4.1 centre from an 1300cc 808 into a RX-3. No possible, as the centre will not bolt up. It would be possible to fit the entire 808 housing, but this swap would result in a substantial DECREASE in strength. Fitting a 121 4.1:1 centre to the RX-3 diff housing would be a much better way to go. <br />
 <strong class='bbc'>7)</strong> Fitting a 4.44 E1600 centre into a 12A RX-4. While the cetre would bolt into the RX-4 diff housing, you would need to swap the hemi over to the original RX-4 one, as the E1600 hemi has 26-spline axle gears. (It would also be possible to swap only the axle gears, but this is much more work for the same result). Tail-shaft length would depend on original RX-4 carrier length.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 19 Dec 2006 05:29:08 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=14</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Everything You Ever Wanted To Know About Mazda Gearboxes</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=15</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<strong class='bbc'>The Mazda RWD gearboxes can be broken down into four groups: <br />
</strong><br />
Clamshell<br />
Early piston<br />
Smooth case <br />
RX-4 type<br />
<br />
<br />
<strong class='bbc'><span style='font-size: 15px;'>Clamshell</span></strong><br />
<br />
The Clamshell boxes were fitted to very early cars only. They can easily be identified by their construction â€“ the main casing is made from two pieces, joined vertically. The bell-housing is removable, and is held onto the case with SIX bolts. These gearboxes were fitted to 1500, R100 and 10A RX-3. The RX-3 has the usual twin dizzy top mounted starter, but the R100 has a bottom mount starter, meaning there are three different types of bell-housing available for these gearboxes (including the piston one). <ul class='bbc'><li>Input and output shafts have few (14?) coarse splines.<br /></li><li>Many 1500s were column-shift.<br /></li><li>Shifter length (rearward distance from motor) varies between R100 and RX-3.<br /></li><li>Early R100 boxes have a rough sand cast finish, particularly on the extension housing, and also have needle roller bearings for the tailshaft.</li></ul>The boxes are reasonably strong for their age. They are also helped by the fact that they were never required to withstand anything more powerful that a 10A. Abuse will result in any number of different breakages occurring â€“ jamming in gear, breaking input shafts, shearing teeth off gears, and/or opening up the two halves of the case. <br />
<br />
<br />
<strong class='bbc'><span style='font-size: 15px;'>Early Piston</span></strong><br />
<br />
The Early piston boxes were fitted to all piston cars before the first 323. These gearboxes can be identified by their small size, external webbing, integral bellhousing and "sculpted" shape. The smaller engined cars (1300, 1300cc 808) have a smaller version compared to the Capella, 929 and 1600cc 808 â€“ most significantly the input shaft is a smaller diameter, compared to the 22-spline shaft fitted to the larger cars. <br />
These gearboxes are the forerunners to the later Smooth case gearboxes and as such do have some similarities. However, as these boxes are only available in 4-speeds for the piston engines there is little interest in them. <br />
<br />
Behind standard piston engines, they will be strong enough for most needs. Severe abuse usually results in a loud internal grinding noise and replacement of the entire gearbox â€“ nobody ever bothers to even have a look at what brokeâ€¦ <br />
<br />
<br />
<strong class='bbc'><span style='font-size: 15px;'>Smooth Case</span></strong><br />
<br />
These were Mazda's mainstay from the late 1970s into the mid eighties and were fitted to RWD 323s, RWD 626s, 929Ls, HB ("Cosmo") 929s, 1st Generation RX-7s, 12A Turbos, non-turbo Series 4 RX-7s, and many vans and utes. <br />
<br />
They can be identified obviously by their smooth case, and by their integral bell-housing. Some later cars (most commonly FE powered 929s) have a circumferential external rib around the bell-housing. <ul class='bbc'><li>323 boxes have a smaller diameter input shaft compared to others, which all have the common 22-spline input shaft. This version is distinctive due to its smaller bell-housing which has a raised section with a flat top, where it bolts to the motor. These are available in both 4 and 5-speed versions. Notably the cases are different (due to the extra length required for the 5th gear), making the 5-speed a difficult fit into a factory fitted 4-speed 323. 808s have more mounting points, and so are a much easier fit. For both cars, factory auto version will easily accommodate the 5-speed gearbox.<br /></li><li>The S1 RX-7 gearbox is a direct swap for the earlier RX-4 / RX-5 gearbox, and all mounting points, shifter position etc are the same. The rotary gearboxes can be identified by having a hole for the starter motor to be fitted to (piston motors have the starter motor fitted to the engine). All smooth case rotary gearboxes are 5-speed.<br /></li><li>S2, S3, S4 RX-7s have a remote shifter that places the shift lever 100mm further back compared to the S1 RX-7 gearbox. These are a substantial update over the S1 boxes and are much stronger, although not indestructible.<br /></li><li>The RWD 626 boxes and the later MA-powered 929 boxes are identical to each other. These have the best ratios of any Mazda production gearbox. They can be identified by the very short distance from the motor to the gear lever â€“ it is 100mm shorter than the S1 RX-7 gearbox, making it 200mm shorter than the S2 and later RX-7 boxes. Available in both 4 and 5-speed versions.<br /></li><li>The FE Smooth Case gearbox, as fitted to post 1983 929s is identified by its larger bellhousing with a raised flat top section where it bolts to the motor. Apparently these gearboxes received the same improvements as the S2 and later RX-7 gearboxes. The FE Smooth Case was 5-speed only.<br /></li><li>The van boxes are column shift, and generally have appalling ratios for road car use. They have bellhousings the same as the car boxes (ie, to suit TC,UC, D5, NA, VC, MA, and FE motors).<br /></li><li>The S3 and S4 NA boxes also have a unique output shaft size, which is larger than the earlier gearboxes.</li></ul>The front case/bellhousings are interchangeable between all gearboxes. It is possible to put a RX-7 front case onto a 626 gearbox to make it fit a rotary motor, or a FE case onto an RX-7 gearbox if a replacement FE gearbox was not available. The 323 gearbox is the exception to this, as it incredibly has a slightly different shape, so none of the bolts line up if you attempt to bolt a 323 bellhousing onto a gearbox from a larger car. It would also require a custom clutch plate (due to its smaller input shaft, and smaller diameter shaft). The 323 also appears to have a smaller bearing in the front case. The extension housings are also interchangeable, meaning that on any gearbox, you have the choice of four different shifter positions (626, S1, S2 or S4 NA). <br />
<br />
The Smooth case gearboxes are generally weak. The S1 RX-7 box in particular has a (well deserved) reputation for breaking with very little provocation. Breaking input shafts, output shafts, stripping teeth off gears, breaking cases and jamming in gear are all common. The piston gearboxes are no stronger, but are generally OK as they rarely have to withstand as much power as the rotary gearboxes. Interestingly, the 'works' racing gearboxes have much thicker cases, suggesting that much of the strength issue is due to a weak, flexible casing. <br />
<br />
<br />
<strong class='bbc'><span style='font-size: 15px;'>RX-4 Type</span></strong><br />
<br />
The RX-4 style gear box is probably the most common gearbox used in rotary Mazdas. From a basic design that first saw the light of day in the early 1970s, it has been upgraded and modified ever since and was even used in the S6 RX-7. <br />
These gearboxes can be identified by their rectangular external webbing, removable bellhousing (8-bolts) and flat aluminium 'sump', which is attached to the gearbox by a large number (14?) 6mm bolts. This style can be broken down into sub-categories: <ul class='bbc'><li><strong class='bbc'>Twin dizzy or Straight type.</strong> This model was fitted to early RX-2s and early twin dizzy RX-4s. They can be identified by looking at the machined flat for the gearbox rubber mount â€“ for these gearboxes only, the flat is parallel to the gearboxes' sump. This means the gearbox sits in the car in a totally upright position. There is only one type of bellhousing to suit these gearboxes â€“ the twin distributor top-mount starter motor one. Ratios are very poor, with a very low ratio 1st gear, and a large gap between 2nd and 3rd gears. These are a fairly strong gearbox, with jamming in gear (almost always 3rd gear) being the most common problem. Breaking synchro rings is not unheard of.</li></ul><div class='bbc_indent'><div class='bbc_indent'>Early single dizzy or Twisted type. This name is slightly misleading, as these gearboxes were not only fitted to single distributor motors. These look very similar to the twin dizzy gearboxes, however the main case does not sit upright in the car â€“ they are twisted over slightly (~15deg) to make room for the rotary bottom mount starter motor. As such, the gearbox mount and the sump are not parallel to each other. In detail: <ul class='bbc'><li>Late RX-4 Twin dizzy. Later 12A twin dizzy RX-4s have the updated bottom mounted starter motor. Notably, the starter is different to the later single dizzy bottom mount starter motors, which have a smaller body â€“ you can see this by the large (~80mm) hole in the bellhousing. These bellhousings are the only easy way to fit a 5-speed behind a twin dizzy motor â€“ more on this later. The ratios in these gearboxes are the best ratios Mazda EVER offered in a factory rotary gearbox. They are also very strong, being able to withstand over 300 horse-power â€“ beyond this power level, the gear-box case becomes the weak point as it tends to expand and allow the shafts to move relative to each other, which then results is broken shafts and/or stripped gears. Wayne Dyson's 9.7 second 500+hp RX-3 used an internally standard RX-4 gearbox that was substantially braced externally with a "full metal jacket" â€“ a steel sump (rather than alloy), and some hefty steel strapping running around the outside of the case. The most common failure with these gearboxes is jamming in 3rd gear when they are worn. The more power being fed through them, and the more worn they are, the more likely it is that they will jam in gear.<br /></li><li> <img src='http://www.vintagerotaries.org/public/style_emoticons/default/cool.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt='B)' /> RX-4 Single Dizzy. The actual gearbox is identical to the later Twin Dizzy "twisted" gearbox, but the bellhousing was changed to suit the single dizzy motors' new bolt pattern, and to suit the inexplicably different starter motor. These bellhousing can be identified by their smaller starter motor hole â€“ it is roughly 55mm in diameter.<br /></li><li>RX-5. This box is essentially just a 5-speed version of the RX-4 gearbox, and as such, has the same strengths and weaknesses. The ratios, however, reverted to the old top-mount twin dizzy ratios and as such are appalling. Bellhousing is the same as single dizzy RX-4.<br /></li><li>121. Again just another revision of the theme â€“ although obviously fitted with a bellhousing to suit the piston motor. The piston bellhousing can be identified by its lack of a hole for the starter motor. These gearboxes have a shorter gear lever position (approx 100mm further forward compared to the RX-5 gearbox. All previous RX-4 type boxes have the same shifter position length as the RX-5). The 121 box is blessed with the much better later RX-4 ratios. Changing the extension housing to the RX-5's item will create a "close ratio" RX-5 5-speed. Notably, in both 5-speed boxes mentioned so far, 5th gear is removable, and the RX-5's 5th gear is a closer (less over-driven) gear than the 121's. The "ultimate" all production Mazda gearbox would use a 121 gear-set, fitted with the RX-5's 5th gear. Note that later 121s were factory fitted with a 626 style Smooth Case gearbox.<br /></li><li>TQX. This is a weird import-only gearbox that you may happen to stumble across. Factory fitted to Jap market RX-5s, they are a 5-speed manual gearbox, which also uses an automatic style torque converter. It is very rare to find one that still has all of the torque converter intact, however, some importers try to sell them as "RX-5 style" gearboxes. They have a very short, very angled gear lever position, and therefore will not easily bolt into anything without the torque converter gear. The gearset however, can be transplanted into a RX-5 or 121 case. Ratios are the same as 121.</li></ul></div></div><ul class='bbc'><li><strong class='bbc'>Series-4 Style. </strong>This is just a major update to the old style RX-4/5 gearbox. Still a Twisted type box, but with a different twist compared to the earlier versions. Visually they are similar to the older gearboxes, but with some external clues:<br />
<br />
- Remote shifters, similar to the S2/3 RX-7s. This puts the shift lever roughly 140mm further rearward than the RX4/5 position.<br />
- The word "Mazda" cast into the side of the gearbox, at the front.<br />
- An extra switch that looks very similar to a reverse light switch. This is for the factory ECU to detect 5th gear.<br />
- The removable bellhousing is larger, and is much smoother compared to the early versions. This is to accommodate the S4's larger 9.5" diameter clutch (as compared to 8.5" for all the early rotaries). <br />
<br />
Internally, these gearboxes are much revised compared to the early versions. The input shaft is larger at 23 splines (rather than 22) as is the output shaft. The gears themselves are stronger, as are the synchros. While much stronger than the earlier gearboxes, they do have a unique problem with an internal nut coming loose and allowing the gears to "float" on their shaft, resulting in only 4th gear providing drive. <br />
<br />
The S5 style gearbox can be identified by its extra webbing, and different gearbox mounting point. Where the S4 has a flat machined into the extension housing and the rubber mount is held by two 8mm bolts (the same as all other RWD Mazdas to that time), the S5 has two pairs of 8mm bolts (ie 4 bolts in total) that are angled in. <br />
<br />
These gearboxes were also fitted to the V6 powered 929s (manual gearboxes of this type are import only, it seems), and many later model vans and utes. <br />
<br />
<strong class='bbc'>Bellhousing swaps</strong><br />
All of the "RX-4 style" gearboxes have removable bellhousings, and as such, any bellhousing can be bolted to any gearbox â€“ with some conditions! <br />
<br />
Putting a twisted type bellhousing onto a straight type box will result in the gear lever sticking out pointing greatly towards the passenger. The gearbox mount will not sit parallel either, requiring some "creative engineering" to make a workable gearbox mount. Obviously, the reverse combination will result in the problems being reversed. <br />
<br />
The S4 type box will also bolt to the early Twisted type bellhousing. This combination results in the shift lever pointing towards the left, although usually only slightly. The bigger problem is the gearbox mount no-longer sits flat and will require thought. Notably, some S4 gearboxes have 10 bolts to hold the bellhousing on â€“ the extra two bolts (top centre and bottom centre) can simply be ignored. <br />
<br />
In all cases of swapping bellhousings, the flywheel and starter motor must match the bellhousing used. When changing between the top-mount and bottom mount starter twin dizzy bellhousings, the ring gear must be swapped around as the chamfer on the teeth is on the opposite side of the ring gear. Similarly, fitting the earlier twisted type BH to a S4 gearbox will need the earlier starter, flywheel and clutch to be used, as the hole in the BH will not allow the starter to line up with the outside of the ring gear.<br /></li><li><strong class='bbc'>Twisted type twin-dizzy bellhousing.</strong> These rare bellhousings allow a multitude of gearbox swaps onto twin distributor motors. RX-5 and 121 gearboxes are direct bolt-ons, S4 gearboxes are possible (although the same problems are encountered as when using a twisted single dizzy bellhousing to mount one of these gearboxes), and Supra and Celica conversions are possible with the use of a readily available adaptor plate. <br />
Be aware that the starter motors are quite difficult to obtain, and are only available from this model bellhousing and from the even rarer bottom mount R100 clam-shell gearbox. <br />
<br />
<strong class='bbc'><em class='bbc'>At a Glance</em></strong> <br />
<br />
<strong class='bbc'>1)</strong> All gearboxes have 22 fine spline input shafts, with the following exceptions: Clam-shell (coarse spline), S4 and later (23 fine spline) and the 1500cc and smaller engined cars (20? Fine spline). <br />
<strong class='bbc'>2)</strong> All gearboxes have the same fine spline output shafts, with the following exceptions: Clamshell (coarse) and S4 and later (larger). (Note that the smaller cars are the same as the "norm" in this regard). <br />
<strong class='bbc'>3)</strong> There are four common engine-to-shifter lengths. From shortest to longest: Piston, early rotary (all before S2 RX-7), S2 & S3 RX-7, and S4+ RX-7. (S6 RX-7 is ignored, because I don't know!) <br />
<strong class='bbc'>4)</strong> There are two different types of shift lever â€“ front slot and rear slot. This refers to the location of the pivot pin in the top of the gearbox. The general rule is that early 4-speeds have one type, and late 4-speeds and all 5-speeds the other. Be aware that fitting an early 4-speed shifter and shifter block (the alloy casing that bolts to top of extension housing) to a 5-speed MAY result in not being able to access 5th or reverse gears. <br />
<strong class='bbc'>5)</strong> There are at least three different shifter ball-lengths â€“ this refers to the distance between the spherical sections on the bottom of the shift lever. Too short will result in frequent missed gears (sometimes a total inability to engage any or all gears). Too long will result in the gearbox jamming in gears. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<strong class='bbc'>****Update****<br />
</strong><br />
The 5-speed MX-5 gearboxes are smooth-case type gearboxes. Ratios are similar to both S1 and S2 RX-7, without being the same as either <img src='http://ausrotary.dntinternet.com/forums/images/smiles/icon_rolleyes.gif' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' />. They also have the big power-train girdle, like a S6 RX-7, and are therefore difficult to mount into earlier cars. <br />
The 6-speed MX-5 gearboxes are an Aisin manufactured gearbox, which is the same gearbox as fitted to the Lexus IS200, S15 200SX, and the new RX-8. I do not yet have any info on ratios, mountings or input/output shafts.</li></ul>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 19 Dec 2006 05:29:49 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=15</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Everything You Ever Wanted To Know About Rotary Carburetion</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=17</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<strong class='bbc'><em class='bbc'><span style='font-size: 15px;'>"What is the Right Carb for My Application?"<br />
</span></em></strong><br />
If you are in the process of modifying your rotary to get more power out of it, first put a header and a free flowing exhaust system on it. After you do the exhaust, then you need to improve the flow through your intake system. Before you decide what you are going to do with your intake system, you need to ask yourself these questions, and come up with honest answers for them. How much money can you afford to spend? Are you still going to drive your car on the street, and if so, is this modified car going to still be your daily driver or are you only going to drive this car very occasionally? How important are gas mileage and smoothness going to be for your modified car? Are you going to be drag racing or road racing this car? What do the rules for your racing organization allow you to do? The following recommendations are my opinion, based on what I have done myself, read about, and heard others say: <br />
<br />
<br />
<strong class='bbc'><span style='font-size: 15px;'>Carbs for 12A Stock or Street Ported, ITA Racing and 13B 4 port Stock or Street Ported Applications.</span><br />
<br />
<span style='font-size: 15px;'>The 4-Barrels :<br />
</span><br />
Modified Nikki</strong> <br />
Paul Yaw used to be the difinitive source for modified Nikki carbs, but has since moved on exclusively to fuel-injected race engines. Two fellows by the name of Sterling and Carl have stepped up and put together an very well-organized program with an initial stock of cores, so they can maintain modified carbs ready to ship. They have now built a good reputation for putting. Sterling and Carl have worked tirelessly to perfect their venturi modifications and main jet selection, and they have built a strong and dedicated, albeit small, customer base.<br />
<br />
<div class='bbc_center'>Sterling Metal Works can be contacted at:<br />
<a href='http://www.sterlingmetalworks.com' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>http://www.sterlingmetalworks.com</a> </div><br />
Modifying your existing Nikki 4-bbl is by far the most cost-effective, as it enables the user to reuse their intake manifold, air hat (w/ thermal flapper valve for quicker warmup), and original filter arrangement. Of course, the user also doesn't need to purchase a new carb, which is no minor point. Carburetor modification is certainly no new art, but the unusual overlap and duration of the Mazda rotaries as well as their two-rotor arrangement mean that the engine's airflow surges alternately through the front and rear runners, and the carburetor must be carefully worked. Incidentally, Sterling's carbs flow 465 cfm, just like the competing Holleys.<br />
<br />
<strong class='bbc'>Holley 4160-Series 465 cfm<br />
</strong>Racing Beat developed several of these modified Holleys years ago, and Mazdatrix sells a competing setup. As of January 2007, Racing Beat and Mazdatrix have matched each other's pricing, such that a 465 kit (carb, manifold, linkages, gaskets, airhat) costs $770. In general, a 4 barrel will offer a little better gas mileage and better low and mid-range power than the big 2 barrels do. The vacuum operated secondary throttles that come on the smaller street Holleys are very good at boosting low rpm and mid rpm power by preventing over carburetion. In America, Holleys have been around the hot rod crowd for years, so some people feel more comfortable working with them than they do the Italian Webers and Dellortos. Unfortunately, they are not as tunable as the Webers or Solex/Mikuni or Dellorto carbs. On the Holleys, you can not change the venturi size, the emulsion tubes, or the air jets. These things are fixed, cast in place. Another thing to beware of is buying a used Holley. The kits that Racing Beat and Mazdatrix sell have several modifications done to their carbs to make them run good on rotaries. In general, if you buy one that came from some where else, you will have a hard time getting it to run right. One last bad point about Holleys is the float bowls. If you go around curves hard (doesn't everybody with an RX-7?) the standard Holley float bowl will make the engine die out. The standard float bowls are okay for drag racing, but for street and road racing you need to get the Holley center pivot float bowls, which will cost you another $165. <br />
<br />
  They Holleys available from Racing Beat and Mazdatrix are single-pumpers (accelerator pump only on the primaries) with the raised choke cover over the primaries and conventional larger secondaries.<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class='bbc_center'><img src='http://www.holley.com/data/products/pictures/large0-1848.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /><br />
</div><br />
<br />
* NOTE * There's a reason that Mazda decided to fit the rotary with a 4-barrel carb in every one of its carbureted setups.  The 4-barrel is a well-known and easily serviced setup that is inherently well-suited to both crusing in-town and dropping the hammer.  All Nikki and Hitachi factory carbs had vacuum secondaries, and it's available on Holleys as an option.  Vacuum secondaries allow the carb to feed the engine through only one runner, and one primary barrel, per rotor under low-load conditions.  You can jet the primaries just a little lean for good mileage, and double the effective airflow-per-barrel over a conventional 4-barrel.  A smaller primary, when combined with this doubled flow, allows the carb to keep the velocity up under mid-load operation and provides very good metering under what would be a less-efficient transition state on a 2-barrel.  When the manifold vacuum drops under full throttle, the secondaries will open and these can be tuned slightly rich, allowing for different cruising and full-throttle mixture, better low-load atomization, and the wonderful feeling of having a 2-step induction noise, just so they can hear you coming.<br />
<br />
<strong class='bbc'><span style='font-size: 15px;'>The 2-Barrels</span></strong><br />
<br />
<strong class='bbc'>Weber 44 IDA / 45 DCOE (Sidedraft / Downdraft)</strong><br />
Mazdatrix sells the 45 DCOE for $1,055 for 12A and $1,204 for 13B. The 44 IDA is typically available from aircooled VW shops like CB Performance, and they bolt to the same manifolds as the 48 IDA. <br />
<span style='color: #ff0000'><br />
<span style='color: #ff0000'></span>Fast Freddie's (714) 540-3801. Mazdatrix also sells these kits for about $50 more, and Mazdatrix can be reached at (562) 426-7960 Weber 48IDA down draft 2 barrel: From my own personal experience, this carb makes more high rpm power than anything else on a street ported 12A, but it suffers from the usual big 2 barrel problem of flat spots and bogs during low rpm street operation.<br />
</span><strong class='bbc'><br />
Solex Mikuni 44 PHH (Sidedraft)<br />
</strong>These carbs are no longer available new, but there are still some used ones that come up for sale occasionally. The performance will be comparable to the Weber 45 DCOE side draft 2 barrel. I ran one for several years on first a stock ported 12A, then on a street ported 12A. Weber 45 DCOE side draft 2 barrel: These carbs are a good compromise between power and smoothness or driveability on the street. Gas mileage may be slightly less than using the modified Nikki 4 barrel. As with all big 2 barrel carbs, you cannot open the throttle quickly at low engine speeds. The minimum engine speed at which a big 2 barrel will not bog varies depending on the size of the venturies, but it usually you cannot floor them below 3500 rpm without the engine stumbling. This is usually a rude shock to someone new to a 2 barrel, but that is just the laws of physics. You can overcome the bog by learning how quickly you can open the throttle and when you can give it full throttle. These carbs require a special intake manifold made just for this carb and your engine. I strongly recommend that you buy a complete kit with carb, air filter, intake manifold, and the linkage required. If you buy a carb off of some other application, it will take you time and money to get all the other necessary pieces rounded up, and a lot of time to get it all running smooth. <br />
<br />
<strong class='bbc'>Dellorto DHLA 44/48 (Sidedraft)<br />
</strong>The Dellorto carbs are primarily available as a side-draft alternative to Weber's IDA. They are no longer in production, but can often be found on eBay. While Weber side-drafts (DRLA) were popularized on European inline engines and IDAs found their way onto US small blocks and European V12s, Dellorto carbs were never widely adopted by the high-power crowd. As a result, the 48s are particularly rare, and it's a shame. The Dellorto DHLA had three major advantages over the IDA with no apparent disadvantages outside of support. The DHLA has a particularly well-refined progression circuit (more on this later) and choke operation, as well as the unusual ability to swap jets with the car still running! With a baggie full of jets, you can change altitudes or make dyno runs at will. The progression and choke features mean that it's a very usable day-to-day carb. The DHLA 48 is typically applied to an extended street port, as a 48mm bore is pretty large, but is included here for simplicity and because of its great drivability.  The DHLA is most identifiable by its black or grey plastic choke cover, which also covers the main and air jets and emulsion tubes.<strong class='bbc'><br />
<br />
</strong><div class='bbc_center'><strong class='bbc'><img src='http://www.racecar.co.uk/dellorto/images/dhlapicture.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /></strong><br />
<br />
</div><br />
<strong class='bbc'><span style='font-size: 15px;'><br />
Carbs for Bridge Ported 12A and 13B Race Engines <br />
</span></strong><br />
<strong class='bbc'>Holley 4160-Series 650 (4-barrel)</strong><br />
Since the bridge port engine has 4 intake ports, it is natural to use a carb with 4 barrels and an intake manifold with 4 runners. You need a larger carb for bridge ported engines. Some experts recommend you need a 600 cfm Holley for bridge ported 12A engines, and a 650 cfm Holley for bridge ported 13B engines. As I said above, Racing Beat and Mazdatrix does several modifications to a Holley that they put in their kits. In general, if you buy one that came from some where else, you will have a hard time getting it to run right. I'll say it again: do not buy a used Holley that came from anywhere else but off a Mazda rotary. In general, a well tuned Holley 4 barrel will make more mid-range power, and more useful horsepower across a wider rpm band than a Weber IDA. However, one bad point about Holleys is the float bowls. If you go around curves hard (doesn't everybody?) the fuel will move to the secondaries and will run the primaries dry. The standard float bowls are okay for drag racing, but for street and road racing you need to get the Holley center pivot float bowls, which will cost you another $165. Another shortcoming of Holleys is that they are not as tunable as the others. On the Holleys, you can not change the venturi size, the emulsion tubes, or the air jets. These things are fixed, cast in place. Once again, there's no clear difference between Racing Beat and Mazdatrix, as both sell the Holley 650 at $844 for the full kit. <br />
<br />
<strong class='bbc'>Weber 48IDA and 51IDA (Downdraft) </strong><strong class='bbc'><br />
</strong>These enormous carbs suffers from the usual big 2 barrel problem of flat spots and bogs during low rpm operation, but most people with bridge ported engines don't care about low rpm drivability, they are just looking for all out high rpm peak horsepower. Some experts claim that they can get a little more peak horsepower out of a Bridgeported engine with a Weber than the same engine with a Holley. Most people with bridge ported 12A engines put 42 mm venturies in their Weber 48 IDA.. Owners of bridge ported 13B race engines usually use the 51 IDA version, with 45 mm venturies installed. The Weber 51 IDA is a 48 IDA that has the throttle body bored out to 51mm, and special 51 mm throttle butterfly plates installed. The 48 IDA (and the modified 51 IDA) have recently become available as of January 2007 from both Mazdatrix and Racing Beat. Mazdatrix charges $499 for the 48IDA and $850 for the 51IDA. Racing Beat charges the same $499 for the 48IDA, but their 51IDA runs $790. Both shops want $250 for an IDA manifold. <br />
<br />
<div class='bbc_center'><img src='http://www.racingbeat.com/photos/16601.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /><br />
</div><br />
<br />
<strong class='bbc'><span style='font-size: 15px;'>The Only Carb for a Peripheral-Ported 12A or 13B Race Engine</span></strong><br />
<br />
Used intake manifolds typically range from $100 to $200 as they're relatively simple, but the carb porting will set you back. The 48 and 51 IDA carbs are a natural choice for the straight runners of the Peripheral Ported 12A and 13B Race Engines. For a 12A peripheral port racer, use the 48IDA with 43 mm venturies. For a 13B peripheral port racer, use the 51 IDA with 46 mm venturies. Note that the peripheral port engines need a slightly larger venturi than the bridge ported engines, that is because the peripheral port engine can flow more so it needs a bigger venturi throat to let it develop it's full horsepower potential. <br />
<br />
<br />
<strong class='bbc'><em class='bbc'>"What About Fuel Injection?"<br />
</em></strong><br />
Hey! This article is about carbs not fuel injection! But seriously, the stock GSL-SE 13B fuel injection system cannot flow as much air as a Weber or Holley can. There are aftermarket systems that can flow a lot of air, but I imagine that by the time you pay a professional to run the car on a dyno and map the fuel injection for you and get it running perfect, you will have spent $2000 for the whole system. Most SCCA road racing classes will not let you run fuel injection on the Mazda Rotary. Last year's state of the art Can-Am 4 rotor road racer run by Jim Downing used fuel injection, and God only knows how much that system cost. The most powerful 13B peripheral port road racer I have seen, in 1998 when there was still a GT3 class in Professional Sportscar Racing, made 380 horsepower with an $8000 flat slide racing fuel injection system (by the way, that engine had a design life of 6 hours.) $8000 just for the fuel injection system! That is why, at my lowly income, that I use carburetors. <br />
<br />
<br />
<strong class='bbc'><em class='bbc'>"What Jets Should I Use in my Carb?" <br />
</em></strong><br />
Sorry, but I can't answer that question for Mazda Nikki 4 barrels and Holley 4 barrels. For those of you who do have these carbs and have them running GOOD, then please e-mail me with your jet sizes and we will add them to our data base. Remember, these are only recommendations. Every engine is a little different, and if your engine porting, or air cleaner, or exhaust system or the altitude you live at is different, then these will not be exactly right. However, they are a good starting point. These jets will get your engine running. To get maximum smoothness and max. power, you will need to continue to fine tune it from here. Note: if you don't use EXACTLY the same size venturies and emulsion tubes as listed here, then these jets sizes are useless. Not sure what size your venturi is? Check for a number on it, or pull it out and measure it.<br />
<br />
<strong class='bbc'>Solex/Mikuni 44PHH<br />
<br />
</strong>Used on stock or street ported 12A with header and free flowing exhaust<br />
<br />
Venturi 39 mm <br />
Main fuel jet #200 <br />
Air Jet #240 <br />
Idle Jet #62.5 <br />
Accel. Pump #90 <br />
Emulsion Tube OA <br />
<br />
<br />
<em class='bbc'><strong class='bbc'><span style='font-size: 15px;'>Racing Beat Recommended Jetting: <br />
</span></strong></em><br />
<strong class='bbc'>Weber 48IDA<br />
</strong><br />
Used on street ported 12A with headers and free flowing mufflers <br />
Venturi 37mm <br />
Main fuel jet #170 <br />
Air Jet #150 <br />
Emulsion Tube #F-11 <br />
<br />
Used on street ported 13B with headers and free flowing mufflers <br />
Venturi 38mm <br />
Main fuel jet #190 <br />
Air Jet #160 <br />
Emulsion Tube #F-11 <br />
<br />
Used on bridge ported 12A with headers and open exhaust <br />
Venturi 42mm <br />
Main fuel jet #240 <br />
Air Jet #170 <br />
Emulsion Tube #F-11 <br />
Use larger #300 float needle valve <br />
<br />
Used on peripheral ported 12A with headers and open exhaust <br />
Venturi 43mm <br />
Main fuel jet #230 <br />
Air Jet #125 <br />
Emulsion Tube #F-8 <br />
Use larger #300 float needle valve <br />
<br />
<strong class='bbc'>Weber 51IDA</strong><br />
<br />
Used on bridge-ported 13B with headers and open exhaust <br />
Venturi 45mm <br />
Main fuel jet #235 <br />
Air Jet #165 <br />
Emulsion Tube #F-11 <br />
Use larger #300 float needle valve <br />
<br />
Used on peripheral- ported 13B with headers and open exhaust <br />
Venturi 46mm <br />
Main fuel jet #240 <br />
Air Jet #110 <br />
Use larger #300 float needle valve <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<strong class='bbc'><em class='bbc'><span style='font-size: 15px;'>"How Do I Fine Tune My Carb?"<br />
</span></em></strong><br />
<strong class='bbc'>WARNING:</strong> If you have no ear or feel for tuning an engine, then you better leave this entire subject alone and let someone else do it for you. <br />
<br />
Before you can tune your carb, you need to know the basic principles of how they work. These basic principles of carb operation apply to all carbs. A few terms: The terms twin choke and two barrel mean the same thing; likewise the terms four choke and four barrel mean the same thing. The term hesitation or stumble or bog or flat spot is usually used interchangeably here; it refers to a combination of engine rpm and throttle setting where the engine suddenly runs rough because the carburetion is not perfect. The engine may recover from this roughness after a second of time, or it may not recover at all until the engine rpm / throttle setting condition changes. The combination of engine rpm and throttle position is very important when trying to tune or trouble shoot a carb. If you don't pay attention to what throttle opening AND what rpm your engine is running rough at, you won't know what circuit in the carb is causing your problem. <br />
<br />
<br />
<strong class='bbc'><span style='font-size: 15px;'>Basic Carb Operating Principles</span></strong><br />
<br />
Everybody knows that their rotary engine breathes air in, adds gas to the air in the carb, and burns the air/fuel mixture in the engine to make power. Carburetion is the process of adding the exact right amount of gas to the air flowing into the engine, at all possible engine rpm and throttle combinations. Trying to get that air/fuel mixture in the perfect proportion all the time is a lot harder than it seems. Having more fuel than the engine needs for the amount of air it is breathing is called running too rich. Not having enough fuel for the amount of air the engine is breathing is called running too lean. <br />
<br />
<br />
<strong class='bbc'>The Venturi</strong><br />
<br />
The fuel gets introduced to the air in the venturi.  Depending on what side of the equator you're on, the venturi may also be known as a choke.  The venturi is the part of the body of the carb that necks down to a smaller diameter than the throttle butterfly plate, and is located upstream of the throttle. As the air flowing through the carb passes through the smaller diameter of the venturi, it has to speed up slightly. As the air speeds up, the air pressure drops, and it sucks fuel out of the float bowl and into the air stream. When running at Â¼ throttle to full throttle, the engine is getting the fuel it needs through the venturi in this way; this system is called the main run circuit. Most carbs have a booster venturi suspended right in the middle of the venturi. Since the air is flowing faster in the center of the carb than along the carb walls, the booster venturi gets an even stronger pressure drop, and it is where the fuel is usually introduced into the air flow. The booster venturi is usually a small cast piece that is suspended by one or two legs or arms that attach it to the main carb body. The fuel travels from the main carb body to the center of the booster ventrui thru a small passage in one of the legs or arms. <br />
<br />
Since the venturi only draws gas from the floatbowl when there's sufficient airflow, a different method of providing the engine with fuel is needed at idle. That system is called the idle circuit; it will be explained later on. To handle the condition in between idle and the main run circuit, most carbs have special passages called transistion circuits. Most street driving is done using the idle circuit, the transition circuit, and just barely getting into the main run circuit. Most carb flat spots / bogs occur in during these operating times, when the fuel flow in the various circuits cannot instantaneously keep up with the changing conditions. Like I said above the combination of engine rpm and throttle position is very important when trying to tune or trouble shoot a carb. You must pay attention to both how much the throttle is open and how many rpm the engine is turning when trying to figure out how carb is working and to trouble shoot any carb problem. <br />
<br />
Since the venturi is smaller in diameter than the main carb body, it is slightly constricting the flow of air through the carb, and thus it slightly restricts the flow of air thru the engine. We all know that to maximize the power our engine puts out, we need to maximize the amount of air that flows through it. Therefore, to help the engine flow more air, racing carbs have bigger venturies than a stock carb. However, it is very easy to put too big a venturi on and have poor carburetion. If the venturi is too big, then the air does not have to speed up enough as it flows through the venturi. If the air does not speed up fast enough, then it does not get sufficient pressure drop, and then it does not want to suck the fuel out of the float bowl proplerly at low air flow (part throttle / low rpm) conditions. The most common mistake someone can make with a street car is to put a carb on with venturies that are too big. If your venturies are too big, you will have a bad bogs / flat spots at part throttle / low rpm conditions. That is why it is best for most people to buy a carb from a reputable rotary shop, because they will know from their own trial and error experiences as to what is the best size carb with the best size venturi for your application. If you have a carb that offers different size venturis like the Weber and the Weber copies (Solex/Mikuni and Dellorto,) then it is best to run with the size venturi that is recommended by someone that has been through all the trouble of tuning that carb. If you change venturi size, then you must start tuning all over in finding the correct size main jets and air jets to go with your new venturi size. Production carbs (like the stock RX-7 Nikki and the Holley) have the venturi cast into the body of the carb, and that venturi cannot be exchanged with a different sized venturi. Aftermarket Holley copies like BG and others offer carbs that look just like the Holley except they have replaceable venturies and other changes to increase tunability. <br />
<br />
<br />
<strong class='bbc'>Float Bowl Level </strong><br />
<br />
The float bowl level is critical in getting the carb to run right. As stated above, during Â¼ throttle and above operating conditions, the venturi sucks the fuel out of the float bowl. If the fuel level in the float bowl is too high, fuel will run out of the float bowl, through the venturi and down in the engine all the time, flooding out the engine. This is exactly what happens when your needle and seat go bad, making the float bowl level rise above the booster venturi and flood out the engine. Besides flooding out an engine, an improper float bowl level will show up when the carb is making the transition from the idle circuit to the transition circuit to the main run circuit. Since the venturi is sucking fuel up out of the float bowl, if the float level is too low, then the venturi must suck harder since it has to raise the fuel higher up before it starts flowing out of the venturi. If the venturi has to suck harder, then it will not reach that higher suction until you reach higher air velocity through the venturi, which means that the main run circuit won't start flowing fuel until higher rpm / throttle more open conditions. A too low float bowl fuel level is sometimes the cause of a stumble or bog or hesitation or flat spot. Too high of a float bowl level may make the main run circuit start adding fuel too soon, before the engine is flowing enough air to need that much fuel. This will cause too rich of a mixture during the transition periods. If your carb was running right and you suddenly develop a carb problem like these, then check the float bowl level. Always run the float bowl level that is recommended by the manufacturer of the carb, or the level recommended by the person who put together the complete carb/intake manifold kit that you are running. <br />
<br />
<br />
<strong class='bbc'>Main Run Circuit</strong> <br />
<br />
As stated above, the main run circuit is where the engine gets most of it's fuel and air from Â¼ throttle to wide open throttle, and covers most engine rpms from about 2500 rpm all the way to engine redline. The devices in the main run circuit that let you meter or control the fuel flow are called the main fuel jet or main jet, the emulsion tube, and the air correction jet or the air jet. The bottom of the emulsion tube is down in the fuel in the float bowl, and the fuel enters the emulsion tube through the main jet. The top of the emulsion tube is located in air, and the air entering the tube must pass through the air jet. Air and fuel enter and mix together in the emulsion tube, and then this air/fuel premix then flows thru a passage into the booster venturi, and then into the main air stream, and then on into the engine. Production carbs like the Nikki and the Holley usually do not have replaceable emulsion tubes; you are stuck with what they cast in place. Webers and Weber copies have several different emulsion tubes to choose from that are easy to replace but I strongly recommend that you use the emulsion tube that the experts recommend for your particular applicatrion. As stated above, the main run circuit is where the engine gets most of it's fuel and air from Â¼ throttle to wide open throttle, and from most engine rpms from about 2500 rpm all the way to engine redline. Both the main jet and the air jet control air/fuel mixture during these operating conditions, but the main jet is the most dominant in controlling mixture during mid-throttle / mid rpm conditions, and the air jet is the most dominant in controlling air/fuel mixture during full throttle / high rpm conditions. In general, if you have a carb jetted right for mid rpm mid throttle conditions, it is hard to get it to run too rich at full throttle high rpm, during that last 1000 rpm right before redline.<br />
<br />
A larger main jet has a bigger number on it and will make the engine run richer. <br />
A smaller main jet has a smaller number on it and will make the engine run leaner. <br />
A larger air jet has a bigger number on it and will make the engine run leaner. <br />
A smaller air jet has a smaller number on it and will make the engine run richer. <br />
<br />
<br />
<strong class='bbc'>Idle Circuit</strong> <br />
<br />
When the engine is idling, the throttle plate is almost closed, and almost no air is flowing through the venturi. Because not enough air is flowing through the venturi for it provide fuel for the engine, the idle circuit was created. Basically, all idle circuits have a small air orifice, a small fuel orifice or jet, a mixture screw, and also there is the throttle stop for the throttle butterfly valve. The fuel enters the air stream at a small hole just below the throttle butterfly valve and is moved only by engine vacuum. Most production carbs do not have adjustable, replaceable idle air jets and idle fuel jets; they only have the idle mixture screw. Webers and Weber copies have replaceable idle (fuel) jets to increase their tenability. In general, run the idle mixture jet that the experts recommend for your particular application. <br />
<br />
Adjusting the idle of an engine is a simple job that anybody can screw up. You adjust the mixture screw(s) until the engine idles the best. Your final setting of the screw must be done with the engine really hot after a hard run. If you try and set the idle mixture with the engine mildly warm, the engine will be too rich once it gets up to full hot operation, and it will tend to foul spark plugs. The universal starting point to set most carbs at is to set the idle mixture screw 1 and Â½ turns out. This means turn the screw gently all the way in, and then back it out 1 and Â½ turns. If you are ham fisted and turn the screw in too hard against it's seat, you will ruin the screw and the seat and you might not ever get your car to idle right again. If your engine wants the idle mixture screws more than 2 turns out, then you might need to install a bigger idle fuel jet. If your engine wants the idle mixture screws less than Â¾ turns out, then you might need to install smaller idle fuel jets. <br />
<br />
If you have a vacuum leak from any source, it will not let the engine idle properly, and you will not be able to adjust the idle mixture properly. If you have a problem idling, first make sure that you do not have a vacuum leak. Check engine to manifold gaskets, carb to intake manifold gaskets, and every hose and every fitting that is attached to the intake manifold.<br />
<br />
<br />
<strong class='bbc'>Transisition Circuit </strong><br />
<br />
The transition circuit is also sometimes called the progression circuit. The transition circuits covers the operating condition when you are just barely cracking the throttle open, when the throttle is opening just slightly more than idle, before there is enough air flow through the carb for the venturi to suck fuel through the main run circuit. I have found that this circuit can make a profound difference on whether one high performance carb is more streetable than another. The transition circuit usually gets its fuel from the same passages that feed the idle circuit. The fuel then enters the air stream in a hole, or a series of holes, or a slot that is located right where the tip of the throttle butterfly touches the carb. As you open the throttle, the throttle will uncover the transition circuit holes, and feed fuel to the engine during this condition of the throttle being just barely open. Since the transition circuit gets it's fuel from the idle circuit, sometimes you can adjust the transition mixture by changing the size of the idle jet. A good test of the transition circuit is to open the throttle very slowly by turning the throttle stop (idle speed) screw. If the transition circuit is working properly, the engine should smoothly increase in rpm with no hesitation or roughness. If the float level is not correct, then there is no way you can get a smooth transition from idle to the main run circuit. If the float level is too high, the main circuit will begin delivering fuel too soon, and the mixture will be too rich during the transition period. If the float level is too low, the transition circuit will stop delivering fuel before the main circuit starts up, and the lean mixture will cause the engine to run very rough. I prefer the type of transition circuit that lets the throttle uncover a series of holes to deliver the fuel. When I was running a 12A street port engine, my Weber 48IDA only came with one transition hole. This carb had an awful flat spot on the transition from idle to the main run circuit. In 1994 I sent the carb to Advanced Engine Management, phone (310) 327-9336, in Gardena, California. For $25, they fixed my problem by drilling two extra transition holes in each barrel of the carb. Their fix did not get rid of all the transition stumble, but they got rid of about 75% of it, and made the car much more pleasant to drive on the street. Never try to drill out or modify the existing transition port holes yourself. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<strong class='bbc'>Other Factors That Can Make Your Car Run Bad <br />
</strong><br />
If your car was running okay with your carb, and all of a sudden it started acting up, odds are it is not the carb's fault. Are you sure that you have no vacuum leaks? Is the ignition in perfect condition? Are the sparkplugs new, and of the correct heat range for your application? Is the carb getting a nice, steady decent supply of fuel pressure? <br />
<br />
If you put a NEW carb on, and it is not running right, are you sure you read and followed all the steps in the instructions? Are you sure you did not create any vacuum leaks? Are you sure you are feeding the carb with EXACTLY the fuel pressure as specified in the instructions? Are you sure you did not put this new performance carb on a marginal, wore out engine, and the extra strain of you now trying to rev the hell out of it did not damage the tired out old engine? <br />
<br />
<br />
<strong class='bbc'>To Really Fine Tune It, <span style='font-size: 15px;'><span class='bbc_underline'>Get an Air/Fuel Meter!!!</span></span></strong><br />
<br />
It is very, very hard to tell whether your mixture is too rich or too lean without an air/fuel ratio meter, especially on a street car. The Mazda rotary can run under a wide variation of mixtures, from very lean to very rich, but it only makes maximum horsepower when it is running slightly rich. You cannot always tell if your car is too rich or too lean by reading the sparkplugs, especially on a street car. If you have a problem with a mixture not being correct, in order to fix it you need to figure out which of the circuits in the car need to be corrected (idle, transition, main run circuit, etc.) Let's say your street car runs rough at 3000 rpm in 5th gear, when you are steady cruising 60mph on a level highway. At a steady 60 mph, your engine is only producing about 20 hp, so you are not making enough heat to be able to tell mixture by your exhaust gas temperature (unless you already have a data base of egt vs. engine power.) If you don't have an air/fuel ratio meter, and you want to check your mixture by reading the spark plugs you are going to have to warm up your car, put in a new set of plugs, drive it only at steady 60 mph for many many miles, the push the clutch in, pull over on the side of the road and remove and read your sparkplugs. The reason I say this is because if you do any idling, or any throttle open hard acceleration during this test, then the different mixtures from those conditions will mask the conditions that you are really trying to test for (your steady 60 mph misfire.) If you have an air/fuel ratio meter, you can instantly read the air/fuel ratio, at any throttle opening, at any rpm. Exhaust Gas Temperature gauges respond slowly, and in my opinion are only good for steady engine operation on a dyno, or on a race track with a VERY long straightaway. Also, like I said above, unless you already have a data base of normal, correct egt vs. engine power, you have no idea of what that EGT number really means. An air/fuel meter tells you straight out: you are running just right, a little rich, way rich, pegged the scale off the rich side, etc. You don't have to be a genius to read the air/fuel gauge. If you do have a mixture problem, and if you want to fix your problem, you do have to pay attention to how far open you have the throttle open and at what rpm the engine is running when you see the mixture problem on your air/fuel ratio meter. <br />
<br />
Haltech sells a nice air/fuel meter with 30 LEDs, but they want $150 for theirs. You can buy an Intelletronix air/fuel ratio meter for as cheap as $40 from Summit. The Intellitronix gauge only has 10 LEDs for a read out, and that level of resolution seemed good enough for me. The gauge is the standard 2-1/16" diameter round, and fits in standard gauge holes. Intelletronix also sells the oxygen sensor to drive the gauge, but they want about $40 for theirs. I found ou that 99% of oxygen sensors have the same output, so I went and bought the most popular (mid '80's GM,) cheapest oxygen sensor from my local auto parts store for about $25. <br />
<br />
The hardest part of the job is installing the oxygen sensor in your exhaust pipe. You need to drill a 5/8 dia hole in the side of your exhaust pipe, then weld a threaded bushing on to hold the oxygen sensor. You can buy a round bung (no flats) for the sensor at any muffler or auto parts stores. If you are a do-it yourself type you can make your own fitting. Most all oxygen sensors have M18x1.5 threads. You can use a low strength 5/8-11 nut, drilled out to 21/32 diameter, then weld it to the exhaust header after the collector. It can then be tapped M18x1.5. When screwing in the sensor, be sure the threads have some anti-seize on them. <br />
<br />
Wiring your oxygen sensor and Air/Fuel Meter is simple. Connect the wire coming out of the oxygen sensor to the gray wire on the meter. Connect the wire from the meter to positive 12 volt power. Connect the black meter wire to ground. Mount the gauge in an easy to read spot, and you are ready to go! If you are tuning for maximum hi-rpm horsepower, you need to run your car in a high gear (3rd or 4th or 5th ) so that you can get a good stable reading. If you try and do it in 1st & 2nd gear on a slalom course or on the street, engine rpm and intake air velocity are changing way too fast for you to read it and get a good data for peak hi-rpm horsepower. <br />
<br />
<br />
<strong class='bbc'><em class='bbc'>"What Fuel Pressure Does My New Carb Need?"</em></strong><br />
<br />
If you buy a new carb kit, the instructions should tell you what the fuel pressure requirements are. Racing Beat offers the following recommendations: <br />
<br />
Stock Mazda Nikki carb, 1976-1983 â€¦â€¦â€¦..â€¦. 4.5 psi <br />
Stock Mazda Nikki carb, 1984-1985 â€¦â€¦...â€¦... 3.5 psi <br />
Weber, Dellorto, Solex/Mikuni â€¦â€¦â€¦â€¦....â€¦â€¦â€¦. 4.5 psi <br />
Holley â€¦â€¦............â€¦â€¦â€¦â€¦â€¦â€¦â€¦â€¦â€¦..â€¦..â€¦â€¦.â€¦â€¦.. 6.0 psi <br />
<br />
To ensure that your fuel pressure is correct, you must check it with a pressure gauge connected to a tee right at the carb. In almost all performance applications, you will need to install a regulator with your performance pump, so that you can set the pressure just right. <br />
<br />
<br />
<em class='bbc'><strong class='bbc'>"My Car Seems to Run Lean After Several Seconds of Full Throttle Hi RPM Operation"<br />
</strong></em>A common complaint of people who put big carbs on is that the power seems strong at high rpm in the lower gears, but by the time they get up to 5th gear the power falls off. This can be caused by too small of a fuel pump, unable to keep up with the fuel demands of the bigger carburetor. You need a bigger than stock fuel pump if you expect to make more than stock horsepower. To ensure that you have enough fuel to feed that big pump you put on, you need a fuel pressure gauge to measure fuel pressure at the carburetor. Put a tee in the fuel line very close to the carburetor. For temporary street use, you can tape the fuel pressure gauge to the windshield, so that you can read it while you are driving. If you have a race car, you need to install a permanent fuel pressure gauge in your instrument panel. While you are running your car full throttle at hi rpm in the upper gears, your fuel pump should be able to maintain the fuel pressure at the carb to within 1 psi of the carb's normal fuel pressure. If your pressure is low, and you have a high performance pump in place, check your fuel filter. Always replace your fuel filter once a year in street applications. <br />
<br />
<br />
<strong class='bbc'><em class='bbc'>"I can See Gas Dripping From the Venturies at Idle or When the Fuel Pump is On"</em><br />
</strong>Possible causes are:<br />
<strong class='bbc'>1)</strong> a piece of trash is making the float needle valve stick open<br />
<strong class='bbc'>2)</strong> your fuel pressure is too high, <br />
<strong class='bbc'>3)</strong> the float level is set too high <br />
<br />
<em class='bbc'><strong class='bbc'>"My Car Runs Lean at Mid Throttle to Full Throttle, Mid RPM to Hi RPM Conditions"</strong></em><br />
Install a larger main fuel jet to make the mixture richer. <br />
<br />
<em class='bbc'><strong class='bbc'>"My Car Runs Rich at Mid Throttle to Full Throttle, Mid RPM to Hi RPM Conditions"<br />
</strong></em>Install a smaller main fuel jet to make the mixture leaner. <br />
<br />
<em class='bbc'><strong class='bbc'>"My Car Runs Lean at Full Throttle, Hi RPM Conditions"</strong><br />
</em>Install a smaller air jet to make the mixture richer. This is a common problem. <br />
<br />
<strong class='bbc'><em class='bbc'>"My Car Runs Rich at Full Throttle, Hi RPM Conditions"</em><br />
</strong>Install a larger air jet to make the mixture leaner. This problem is not very common. <br />
<br />
<em class='bbc'><strong class='bbc'>"My Car was Idling Fine, but now it Runs Very Rough at Idle"</strong></em><br />
This is a common complaint. If your car was running okay, and all of a sudden it started acting up, odds are it is not the carbs fault. Are you sure that you have no vacuum leaks? A Vacuum leak will make any car idle awful. Check the carb to intake gaskets, and the intake manifold to engine gaskets. Check every single fitting and hose connected to the intake manifold. Check the vacuum hose going to the power brake booster. Is the ignition in perfect condition? Are the sparkplugs new, and of the correct heat range for your application? If the spark plugs look dirty, put in a new set of plugs before you do anything else! Possible carb problems can be a piece of trash has plugged up something in the idle or transition circuits. Blow out the idle jets with compressed air or a can of carb cleaner, and blow out the passages that the idle jets were screwed into. Look down the throat of the carb while you are blowing thru the idle passages, and make sure you can see fuel/air blowing out of the ports in each throat by the throttle butterfly valves. <br />
<br />
<strong class='bbc'><em class='bbc'>"My Car Idles Fine, but When I Open the Throttle It Wants to Die, and Then It Recovers and Runs Strong"</em><br />
</strong><br />
<strong class='bbc'>1)</strong> With the engine shut off, check that your accelerator pump is giving a nice, strong, long squirt of gas down the venturis when you open the throttle by hand. If you don't see a nice, long squirt down the venturies, then fix your accelerator pump. <br />
<br />
<strong class='bbc'>2)</strong> Make sure your float bowl level is not too low.<br />
<br />
<strong class='bbc'>3)</strong> Make sure the transition circuits are not plugged up by trash. Blow out the idle jets with compressed air or a can of carb cleaner, and blow out the passages that the idle jets were screwed into. Look down the throat of the carb while you are blowing thru the idle passages, and make sure you can see fuel/air blowing out of the ports in each throat by the throttle butterfly valves. <br />
<br />
<strong class='bbc'>4)</strong> Your carburetor is too big! You went overboard when you put that monster carb on your street driven engine. You need to put a carb with smaller venturies on your car. <br />
<br />
<strong class='bbc'>5)</strong> You put on a carb that was not made for a rotary, and it does not have sufficient accelerator pump volume and/or the wrong transition circuit for a rotary. Good luck on trying to get it tuned right. <br />
<br />
<br />
<strong class='bbc'><span style='font-size: 15px;'>Initial Weber Setup</span></strong><br />
<br />
from <a href='http://www.racetep.com/weberadj.html' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>racetep.com</a><br />
<br />
<img src='http://www.racetep.com/idle_a1.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /> <br />
<br />
<br />
It is important to follow all linkage and lever installation instructions. The number one and two reasons for tuning errors are improper linkage installations and over tightened linkage nut, causing a binding in linkage assembly. Please also note that calibrations may vary due to regional fuels, state of engine tune and performance, and altitude. Poor running quality does not necessarily mean a defective carburetor.<br />
<br />
<strong class='bbc'>Setup Adjustments</strong><br />
Begin your setup by confirming carb base line settings. Do not rely on the factory's (or previous owner's) settings as-delivered. Check them before the carb is installed. All settings are done with choke disengaged or warmed up so that the choke is fully opened and disengaged. This is done on automatic choke carburetors by first opening the choke butterfly by hand and inserting a wood block or wedge of some kind to hold open while the linkage is cycled (linkage operated through its full movement) to clear the choke cam. (You will hear a metallic click as the cam is released. You can check the fast Idle screw under the choke assembly to confirm that it is not in contact with the choke fast idle cam.) <br />
<br />
<strong class='bbc'>Idle Stop</strong><br />
Set the Idle stop screw (speed screw see fig 1) by backing out the Idle speed screw until it is not in contact with the throttle stop lever. Cycle the linkage again to be sure that the linkage comes to close without any assistance. (Checking for linkage bind) Now bring screw back into contact with the lever and continue to open or screwing in 1 turn, but no more than 1Â½ turns. Set the mixture screw (see Fig 1) by first screwing in until the screw stops and bottoms out. Do not force or bind the screw, as this will cause damage to the screw and its seat in the body of the carburetor. Back out the screw 2 full turns. <br />
<br />
<strong class='bbc'>Tuning</strong> <br />
Be sure to work through the following steps in sequence. Many settings are reliant on the previous steps being correct. You WILL lose power and/or fuel economy as a result.<br />
<br />
<strong class='bbc'>1)</strong> Start the engine, the engine will run very slowly more like a tractor. As long as the engine stays running idle speed is not important at this point. If needed, you can turn the throttle stop CW in order to raise the idle speed, but avoid this if possible.<br />
<br />
<strong class='bbc'>2)</strong> The first thing to do is not set up the idle speed, but to set the idle mixture screw to lean best idle setting. First, turn in the mixture screw until the engine dies or runs worse, then back out the screw (recommend turning Â¼ to Â½ turn at a time). The engine should pick up speed and begin to smooth out. Back out Â½ turn more, or until the screw does nothing or runs worse then turn back to the point where it ran its best. Use your ear, not a scope or tuning instruments at this point. You want to tune the engine by sound. Adjust to best, fastest and smoothest running point.<br />
<br />
<strong class='bbc'>3)</strong> Now that the mixture screw is at its best running location, you can adjust the idle speed screw. The screw will be rather sensitive and should only take Â¼ to Â½ turns to achieve the idle speed you like. Check and set idle to your driving preference. Put the car in gear and apply slight load, (A/C on) and set the Idle as you like it. Don't set your idle too high, as this will cause causes excessive clutch and brake wear. The Idle only needs to be 7 to 900 RPM with light load or A/C on.<br />
<br />
<strong class='bbc'>4)</strong> Recheck timing and vacuum hook ups. Recheck mixture screw to lean best idle again. If slight changes to your adjustments all result in slightly worse running, then you can confirm and note the final settings.<br />
<br />
<strong class='bbc'>Idle Confirmation<br />
</strong>Start by screwing in the mixture screw and count the number of turns it takes to bottom out and note if the engine dies. If Idle Mixture screws are with in Â½ turn of base line setting then all is well and have fun. Also check the speed screw and note how many total turns from initial contact. You may have opened (turned in) the speed screw. Your final setting should be under 2 full turns. Reset the screws (back in) to the best final settings (Per your notes) and go on a test drive and have fun. If the settings are other than described then you may want to recalibrate the idle circuit (low speed circuit) to your engines needs. This is done by following the rule of thumb below. <br />
<br />
<em class='bbc'>Simple Rules for Low-Speed Calibration <br />
</em><br />
If the mixture screw is more than 2 Â½ turns out turns then the idle jet is too lean (too small). When the mixture screw is less than 1Â½ then the idle jet is too rich (the orifice is too large). These assumptions are based on the fact that the speed screw setting is not opened more than 1Â½ turns. If the speed screw has to be opened 2 or more turns then this is also an indication of a lean condition usually requiring greater change. At times it may appear to be showing signs of richness or flooding it is really a lean condition. You may find that your throttle plates are open enough that they're exposing your progression circuit holes. This is what causes the visible rich condition, and confirms the need to increase the jet size. Jet kits are available form a number of aftermarket suppliers.<br />
<br />
EXAMPLE: With the speed screw set at no more than two (2) turns in after contact with the stop lever; and the best idle occuring with the mixture screw set at 3 turns from bottom, indicates the need for a larger Idle jet. Achieving the best idle at under 2 turns indicates the need for a smaller idle jet. <br />
<br />
The secret to understanding the critical nature of the carburetor set up and the advantages of a Weber over other carburetors is the idle circuit. Referred to as the low speed circuit by Weber, this circuit is responsible for 80% of the driving operation. This is the reason that the Weber should give a fuel economy improvement over most factory carbs along with significant performance gains. In the worst case you should not see a significant fuel economy loss over stock, while improving HP & Drivability. <br />
<br />
<br />
<strong class='bbc'><em class='bbc'><span style='font-size: 15px;'>Weber Links</span></em></strong><br />
<br />
<strong class='bbc'>Rebuilds<br />
</strong><br />
<a href='http://www.vwtrendsweb.com/tech/0308vwt_carb/' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>VW Trends</a> - Teardown and Familiarization<br />
<br />
<a href='http://aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resource/articles/48idarebuild.htm' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Aircooled.net</a> - Great rebuild writeup that's applicable to other 2-bbl carbs<br />
<br />
<strong class='bbc'>Replacement Parts</strong><br />
<br />
<a href='http://www.racingbeat.com/PDF/webercomponents.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Racing Beat Weber jetting</a><br />
<br />
<a href='http://www.webercarbs.com/' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Weber Carbs (was Redline Weber Carbs)</a> - Replacement parts, jets, gaskets, etc.<br />
<br />
<a href='http://www.cbperformance.com/' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>CB Performance</a> - With a customer base in the aircooled VW scene, they have access to TONS of Weber and Dellorto rebuild kits, jets, and throttle linkages (Also a good source for "Gorilla Studs" if you want to stud your hubs).<br />
<br />
<a href='http://www.piercemanifolds.com/products.htm' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Pierce Manifolds</a> - Another MASSIVE Weber dedicated webpage, EVERYTHING you would want to buy<br />
<br />
<a href='http://www.tperformance.com/street_rod_store/carburetion/' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Total Performance</a> - Yet another online store that's stocked with carbs, jets, and nearly everything you could need. <br />
<br />
<a href='http://www.inglese.com/tech.htm' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Inglese Induction</a> - A great write up on the weber hisory, streetability, tuneability of ther Weber<br />
<br />
<a href='http://www.rotaryshack.com/Products/turboPlenum.asp?intview=100' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>RotaryShack</a> - Great outfit to support carb turbo hats and carburetor parts<br />
<br />
<br />
<strong class='bbc'><em class='bbc'><span style='font-size: 15px;'>Other Links</span></em></strong><br />
<br />
<a href='http://www.racingbeat.com/' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Racing Beat<br />
</a><br />
<a href='http://www.mazdatrix.com/' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Mazdatrix<br />
</a><br />
<a href='http://www.vintagerotaries.org/www.holley.com' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Holley</a><br />
<br />
<a href='http://www.haynes.com/na201.html#anchor1050330' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Haynes Manuals</a> - One for Holley, another for Weber, Zenith/Stromberg, SU<br />
<br />
<a href='http://www.amazon.com/Build-Power-Dellorto-Carburettors-Speedpro/dp/1903706750/sr=8-1/qid=1166714067/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1/102-1096873-3237756?ie=UTF8&s=books' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Weber and Dellorto Tuning</a> - Good book detailing jetting and modification of Weber and Dellorto<br />
<br />
<a href='http://www.amazon.com/Dellorto-Superformance-Tech-Book/dp/B000F7VW4G/sr=8-2/qid=1166714067/ref=pd_bbs_sr_2/102-1096873-3237756?ie=UTF8&s=books' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Dellorto Manual</a> - An EXCELLENT book Written by CB Performance to include rebuild and tuning<br />
<br />
<strong class='bbc'><em class='bbc'><span style='font-size: 15px;'>Technical Documentation</span></em></strong><br />
<br />
<a href='http://www.racingbeat.com/PDF/webercomponents.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Racing Beat Jetting for Weber IDA</a><br />
<br />
<a href='http://www.holley.com/data/TechService/Technical/4150-4160%20Exploded%20View.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Holley 4160 Exploded View and Parts List</a> - 4-bbl Single Pumper w/ Vacuum Secondaries<br />
<br />
<a href='http://www.piercemanifolds.com/carbdetails/explviewparts/48_IDA.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Weber 48 IDA Exploded View and Parts List</a><br />
<br />
<a href='http://www.piercemanifolds.com/carbdetails/explviewparts/45_DCOE_152.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Weber 45 DCOE Exploded View and Parts List</a> - (Side-Draft)<br />
<br />
<a href='http://www.gruntled.com/Dellorto/Diagram.html' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Dellorto DHLA Exploded View and Parts List</a><br />
<br />
Mikuni Exploded View (I have an image but need to host it)<br />
<br />
<img src='http://www.toysport.com/webpages/ProductLine/ProductLineMakers/Mikuni2.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /><br />
<br />
<a href='http://www.toysport.com/index.htm' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Mikuni Parts</a> (select product line, then Mikuni)]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 19 Dec 2006 05:56:31 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=17</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Welcome</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=21</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Welcome to the re-birth of vintage rotaries. We would like to build this forum into a depository for vintage rotary information, images and literature. We plan to operate the forum with a laid back atmosphere and feel the camaraderie will build as we grow. Feel free to dive in and let's get this thing off the ground.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 19 Dec 2006 15:00:22 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=21</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Everything You Ever Wanted To Know About Mazda Stud Patterns And Offsets</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=23</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<span class='bbc_underline'><strong class='bbc'>R100, RX-2, RX-3, RX-4, older 929s, RWD 323s, RWD 626s and Series 1/2 RX-7</strong></span><br />
Stud pattern = 4x110 PCD<br />
Offset = +20<br />
Similar fitment = good luck! Aftermarket only: Simmons, Globes, Challengers, ROH, etc;<br />
NOTE: 70s European cars such as Escorts and Saabs which appear to fit are actually 4x108 PCD.<br />
<br />
<span class='bbc_underline'><strong class='bbc'>RX-5, 70s 121s, 1500/1800, 929L</strong></span><br />
Stud pattern = 4x120 PCD<br />
Offset = ?<br />
Similar fitment = good luck once again!<br />
<br />
<strong class='bbc'><span class='bbc_underline'>REPU</span></strong><br />
Stud pattern = 6x5.5"<br />
Offset = ???<br />
74-76 also had left-handed threads on the driver's side. Couriers and 77 REPUs didn't.<br />
<br />
<strong class='bbc'><span class='bbc_underline'>Series 3 RX-7, HB Cosmo/929, FWD 626, FWD 323</span></strong><br />
Stud pattern = 4x114.3 PCD<br />
Offset = +38/40<br />
Similar fitment includes many Japanese FWDs, eg Pulsar, Civics<br />
<br />
<strong class='bbc'><span class='bbc_underline'>Series 4/5 RX-7, HC Luce/929</span></strong><br />
PCD = 5x114.3 PCD<br />
Offset = +40<br />
<br />
<strong class='bbc'><span class='bbc_underline'>Series 6-9 RX-7</span></strong><br />
PCD = 5x114.3 PCD<br />
Offset = +50<br />
<br />
<br />
If using later-model hubs but looking for alternate wheels, there's a very complete list <a href='http://wheels.customfastcars.com/find-your-stud-pattern.html' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>HERE</a>.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 20 Dec 2006 02:15:16 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=23</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Original US Rx-3 Brochures</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=24</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<img src='http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v255/sim_rx3/rx3%20sales%20brochures/models/rx3series1Aussiep06-07.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /><br />
<img src='http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v255/sim_rx3/rx3%20sales%20brochures/models/rx3series1Aussiep12-13.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /><br />
<img src='http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v255/sim_rx3/rx3%20sales%20brochures/models/rx3series2Aussiep02-03.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /><br />
<img src='http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v255/sim_rx3/rx3%20sales%20brochures/models/rx3series3Americanp02-03.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /><br />
<img src='http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v255/sim_rx3/rx3%20sales%20brochures/models/rx3series1Americanp02-03-04.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /><br />
<img src='http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v255/sim_rx3/rx3%20sales%20brochures/models/rx3series1American2p04-05.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /><br />
<img src='http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v255/sim_rx3/rx3%20sales%20brochures/models/rx3series1American3p04-05.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /><br />
<img src='http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v255/sim_rx3/rx3%20sales%20brochures/models/rx3series3SPAmericanp02-03.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /><br />
<img src='http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v255/sim_rx3/rx3%20sales%20brochures/rx3series3sp01americanspec.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' />]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 20 Dec 2006 02:35:06 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=24</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Weber IDA Rebuild</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=28</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<span style='font-family: Arial Helvetica sans-serif'><span style='font-family: Arial Helvetica sans-serif'><strong class='bbc'><em class='bbc'><span style='font-size: 15px;'>Rebuilding 48 IDA Carburetors<br />
</span></em></strong><br />
</span></span><span style='font-family: Arial Helvetica sans-serif'>The Weber 48 IDA has been used for decades by VW enthusiasts whose goal it is to squeeze every ounce of performance out of their engine. Problem is, production of these coveted Webers was halted many years ago. These excellent carburetors in decent condition have become rather scarce! Typically VW motorheads (as we affectionately like to call VW performance engine fanatics) have to resort to scrounging the swap meets to find a pair of 48's and even then, they may not be lucky enough to find a pair but have to acquire them one at a time. But if you are lucky enough to acquire a set in usable condition, and you are willing put the time, money and energy into rebuilding and tuning them, you WILL be rewarded. The Weber IDA's sheer size will likely result in gasps of awe and astonishment from those that have never seen them before! </span><br />
<br />
<span style='font-family: Arial Helvetica sans-serif'>No matter where you find your 48s, they are almost always in need of some TLC. Many need a full rebuild, and some may also need repair if they have sustained damage during the course of existence. We hope you find this guide informative as we attempt to outline what is required to rescue the beloved 48 IDA, and to restore them to their former glory so that you can use them on your VW safely and reliably. After reading this article carefully, you may still not feel that you are up to the task of your 48 rebuild for lack of skill, tools, or confidence. If this is true in your case, then we recommend that you send your 48 IDA's to a carburetor rebuilder and have them done professionally rather than risk contributing to their extinction! </span><br />
<br />
<span style='font-family: Arial Helvetica sans-serif'>Before you delve into a do-it-yourself rebuild, you will need to make certain you have a set of basic tools, a bucket of carburetor cleaner, rebuild kits (one kit per carb) and replacements for damaged parts (mixture screws, etc) that you may encounter during disassembly. There are typically two types of rebuild kits: the "Basic" kit, and the "Master" kit. The master kit includes new floats, which can develop leaks as they age. If your floats are in good shape, the basic rebuild kit will suffice, but "hammered" carburetors should get the full treatment, including new floats to eliminate the potential for problems. You may want to note that some of the steps shown here may not be 'required', but if performed will result in a fine finished product, even better than new! Also, be forewarned that your engine and ignition system have to be in healthy condition. Plenty of time has been spent on fixing 'carburetor problems' when the REAL problem was something else! Remember that gasoline is EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE, so keep any sort of flame away from your carbs (and carb cleaner) as you work. Now, on to the fun stuff! </span><br />
<br />
<span style='font-family: Arial Helvetica sans-serif'>FINDING A CARB SUITABLE FOR REBUILD </span><br />
<br />
<img src='http://aircooled.net/images/gnrlpgs/carbrebuild/carb01s.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /><span style='font-family: Arial Helvetica sans-serif'>This is the Weber 48 IDA downdraft carburetor. The IDA was equipped new with 37mm venturis, but can be re-sized with venturis ranging from 32-45mm which work on engines from 1600-3000cc monsters! </span><span style='font-family: Arial Helvetica sans-serif'>This is the top side of the accelerator pump pushrod. This pushrod MUST be a snug fit at both top and bottom! This is one of the areas you should check if you are considering buying a 48. </span><span style='font-family: Arial Helvetica sans-serif'>[/size]<span style='font-family: Arial Helvetica sans-serif'><img src='http://aircooled.net/images/gnrlpgs/carbrebuild/carb02s.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /></span><img src='http://aircooled.net/images/gnrlpgs/carbrebuild/carb03s.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /> <span style='font-family: Arial Helvetica sans-serif'></span><span style='font-family: Arial Helvetica sans-serif'>This is the bottom side of the accelerator pump pushrod. You have to swing the pump cam out of the way to view it. If it's loose when you wiggle it, run (don't walk) away from these carbs, because the fix is more expensive than finding a good set to begin with! </span><span style='font-family: Arial Helvetica sans-serif'>This is the throttle shaft bearing location. Wiggle the shaft. This is another area that must be in good shape (snug) if you want carbs that aren't more trouble (and cost to repair) than they are worth! Also make sure that the idle mixture screws aren't seized (screw is on top of picture). </span><img src='http://aircooled.net/images/gnrlpgs/carbrebuild/carb04s.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /><img src='http://aircooled.net/images/gnrlpgs/carbrebuild/carb05s.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /> <span style='font-family: Arial Helvetica sans-serif'>The throttle shaft bearing with the leather cover removed. With the bearings exposed, look closely for dirt/grit/sand (which is bad). When loosening/tightening the throttle shaft nuts, NEVER hold the OTHER end of the shaft to stop the shaft from rotating (it twists the shaft). Always hold on the same end of the shaft you are tightening or loosening the nut!</span> <span style='font-family: Arial Helvetica sans-serif'>REBUILDING YOUR BABIES </span><br />
<br />
<img src='http://aircooled.net/images/gnrlpgs/carbrebuild/carb06s.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /> <span style='font-family: Arial Helvetica sans-serif'>Disassemble the carbs (leave the throttle shafts and bearings in place), and put all metal parts into the carb cleaner (the cleaner will dissolve any non-metal items!). Make SURE you observe and remember (or note) exactly how the carb comes apart, because YOU have to put them back together! If you aren't sure, you might trying disassembling one carb at a time, and use the other carburetor as a reference. The carb bodies will also get cleaned in the carb dip, but we are going to make a few improvements to them first.</span> <span style='font-family: Arial Helvetica sans-serif'>Take the carb bodies and blast them in a blasting cabinet, with a special mild abrasive (silica or sand will RUIN the carbs, so don't use it!). This gives the old carbs a brand new appearance! See the difference? (Top is blasted, bottom is not).These carbs were nasty looking before, complete with gas stains from leaky gaskets and lead plugs.</span><img src='http://aircooled.net/images/gnrlpgs/carbrebuild/carb07s.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /><img src='http://aircooled.net/images/gnrlpgs/carbrebuild/carb08s.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /> <span style='font-family: Arial Helvetica sans-serif'></span><span style='font-family: Arial Helvetica sans-serif'>This set of carbs is getting the "Third Progression Hole Modification". We recommend this modification to IDA's that are going to be used on street engines, since it makes them significantly more drivable. This carb is jigged up and is ready for drilling; the card is there to make the drill bit easier to see. </span><span style='font-family: Arial Helvetica sans-serif'>Most IDAs only have 2 progression holes in them, which makes them more "off/on" in operation. Late IDA's had the third hole when new. Here's how the Third Progression Hole Modification will look after it's done!</span><span style='font-family: Arial Helvetica sans-serif'> (We are shining a flashlight down the venturi). The top hole is the new one you are adding.</span><img src='http://aircooled.net/images/gnrlpgs/carbrebuild/carb09s.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /><img src='http://aircooled.net/images/gnrlpgs/carbrebuild/carb10s.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /> <span style='font-family: Arial Helvetica sans-serif'></span><span style='font-family: Arial Helvetica sans-serif'>[size="2"]IDA Auxiliary Venturis (the tall thin stacks) can become loose as the carbs age (rattling from your carbs is not normal or desirable!). An optional modification is to drill and tap the stock location for a nice Allen set-screw. This makes for a more secure method of keeping them in place.</span></span><span style='font-family: Arial Helvetica sans-serif'>Be sure to use "blue" Loctite (or equivalent) on the Allen set-screws. Otherwise the screws may back out from normal engine vibration.</span> <img src='http://aircooled.net/images/gnrlpgs/carbrebuild/carb11s.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /><img src='http://aircooled.net/images/gnrlpgs/carbrebuild/carb12s.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /> <span style='font-family: Arial Helvetica sans-serif'>This is the spring-key that normally holds the Auxiliary Venturis tight. The spring gets soft over time and cannot be easily replaced or fixed. This is why we recommend and are demonstrating the installation of the Allen set-screw system.</span> <span style='font-family: Arial Helvetica sans-serif'>Next, drill out the lead plugs on the lower part of the carb body. Experience has taught us to pull these plugs out for a thorough cleaning. </span><img src='http://aircooled.net/images/gnrlpgs/carbrebuild/carb13s.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /><img src='http://aircooled.net/images/gnrlpgs/carbrebuild/carb14s.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /> <span style='font-family: Arial Helvetica sans-serif'>Carefully thread a puller into the lead plugs, and with a POP, out they come! Careful inspection reveals a LOT of dirt and sand in the bottom of this passage! This is very common, and merely dunking the carbs into a tank of cleaner wouldn't have gotten this debris out!</span> <span style='font-family: Arial Helvetica sans-serif'>Use a soft brush in the parts cleaner to clean the crap out of the bare carb body. </span><img src='http://aircooled.net/images/gnrlpgs/carbrebuild/carb15s.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /><img src='http://aircooled.net/images/gnrlpgs/carbrebuild/carb16s.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /><span style='font-family: Arial Helvetica sans-serif'>After the carb body is clean and dry (blow it out with compressed air), the opening is closed again by peening some lead back into the hole. Another optional step is to mill the location flat again for a pristine, better-than-new appearance. </span><span style='font-family: Arial Helvetica sans-serif'>The Idle Air Jet Holder is TIG welded closed, so that it can be re-drilled to the size needed. In Art's experience, the Idle Air Jet Holder is one of the keys to unleashing the IDA's tunability. The Idle Air Jet Holder should be sized to the application and engine size. Sizing makes a HUGE difference in idle and off idle performance. Try a 110-115 on small engines, and 130-135 on large ones (they come with a 120).</span><img src='http://aircooled.net/images/gnrlpgs/carbrebuild/carb17s.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /><img src='http://aircooled.net/images/gnrlpgs/carbrebuild/carb18s.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /><span style='font-family: Arial Helvetica sans-serif'>The carburetor's venturis are chucked into a lathe, and some fine sandpaper or a Scotchbrite pad are used to smooth and polish the bore of the venturi. This improves the flow through the carb (and besides that, it looks cool!)</span><span style='font-family: Arial Helvetica sans-serif'>This is a side-by-side comparison of a polished and unpolished venturi.</span><img src='http://aircooled.net/images/gnrlpgs/carbrebuild/carb19s.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /><img src='http://aircooled.net/images/gnrlpgs/carbrebuild/carb20s.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /><span style='font-family: Arial Helvetica sans-serif'>You are ready to reassemble! Now that the carb parts are completely clean, blow them dry with compressed air. Then, pack the throttle shaft bearings full with a good, thick grease. Better to use too much than not enough!</span><span style='font-family: Arial Helvetica sans-serif'>Grease up the accelerator pump pushrod, and insert this into the carb body. IDA's use a piston activated accelerator pump, instead of a diaphragm type as is used on the IDF series of Webers. The piston style is better because it is less prone to problems or wear. </span><img src='http://aircooled.net/images/gnrlpgs/carbrebuild/carb21s.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /><img src='http://aircooled.net/images/gnrlpgs/carbrebuild/carb22s.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /><span style='font-family: Arial Helvetica sans-serif'>The carb top gasket is placed on the carb; be sure the orientation is correct (it only goes on correctly one way). A thin coating of Chap-Stick will keep the gasket from sticking if you ever have to remove the carb top again. Get some extra carb top gaskets so you have some around if you tear one.</span><span style='font-family: Arial Helvetica sans-serif'>The carb top is surfaced flat on a belt sander. Uneven or warped carb tops are the source of many 'mysterious' carb leaks! Surface the carb top until you are getting an even pattern on the sealing surface.</span><img src='http://aircooled.net/images/gnrlpgs/carbrebuild/carb23s.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /><img src='http://aircooled.net/images/gnrlpgs/carbrebuild/carb24s.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /><span style='font-family: Arial Helvetica sans-serif'>The float valve (needle valve) is installed into the carb top. </span><span style='font-family: Arial Helvetica sans-serif'>The float is set to an initial setting (your best guess - you'll adjust it later), and then installed into the carb body.</span><img src='http://aircooled.net/images/gnrlpgs/carbrebuild/carb25s.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /><img src='http://aircooled.net/images/gnrlpgs/carbrebuild/carb26s.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /><span style='font-family: Arial Helvetica sans-serif'>Using a float-measuring tool (specific to the IDA), check the float level. You need to check both open and closed positions, and set them according to the Weber spec (Between 5.5-6mm). You can use calipers for this measurement, but the proper tool is much easier!</span><span style='font-family: Arial Helvetica sans-serif'>Once the float is adjusted correctly, you can finish tightening down the float pivot bolt and washer. Here, the bolt is safety wired so it won't come loose (which would leak gasoline and create a fire hazard).</span><img src='http://aircooled.net/images/gnrlpgs/carbrebuild/carb27s.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /><img src='http://aircooled.net/images/gnrlpgs/carbrebuild/carb28s.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /><span style='font-family: Arial Helvetica sans-serif'>The accelerator pump jets are drilled to the size that's correct for the application. Proper tools are critical for this step! When you are dealing with sizes this small, a little difference can make or break your tuning! Again, sizing depends on the application.</span><span style='font-family: Arial Helvetica sans-serif'>The accelerator pump squirters are installed, and as they are activated, the gasoline should squirt directly at the gap between the throttle blade and the edge of the carb body. This aiming is very important!</span><img src='http://aircooled.net/images/gnrlpgs/carbrebuild/carb29s.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /><img src='http://aircooled.net/images/gnrlpgs/carbrebuild/carb30s.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /><span style='font-family: Arial Helvetica sans-serif'>The carb top is installed and tightened up. IDA's used different types of studs/screws on various parts of the carb, depending on when they were produced. Some "sets" have mismatched components. We keep a full inventory of small Weber parts if you need them.</span><span style='font-family: Arial Helvetica sans-serif'>This is a comparison between an old and new idle mixture screw. Old ones are often pitted (from corrosion), bent (who knows why?), or have a groove worn in the tip. Any of these conditions require new screws to bring back the idle tunability we need! Of course, we have these too! </span><img src='http://aircooled.net/images/gnrlpgs/carbrebuild/carb31s.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /><img src='http://aircooled.net/images/gnrlpgs/carbrebuild/carb32s.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /><span style='font-family: Arial Helvetica sans-serif'>The idle mixture screws, and their springs, are now installed. LIGHTLY bottom them out, then back the screws out 2 turns for a preliminary setting.</span><span style='font-family: Arial Helvetica sans-serif'>Here's another often overlooked part of carbs; the jet seating area! We used a magic marker to mark the main jet sealing area, then tightened the main jet stack (air jet, emulsion tube, and main jet) into the carb body.</span><img src='http://aircooled.net/images/gnrlpgs/carbrebuild/carb33s.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /><img src='http://aircooled.net/images/gnrlpgs/carbrebuild/carb34s.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /><span style='font-family: Arial Helvetica sans-serif'>Taking it back out, you can see where the jet touched the carb body. You should see a clean circle around the jet. If not, remove the jet stack, and look down into the hole (you'll need a flashlight) to see if the sealing area is smooth. If not, it needs to be resurfaced. If the main jet does not seal, fuel goes AROUND the jet instead of through it (there goes your tuning out the window).</span><span style='font-family: Arial Helvetica sans-serif'>Next, lubricate the accelerator pump pushrod and the cam & roller mechanism with a good long lasting lube. We recommend our new Amsoil lube.</span><img src='http://aircooled.net/images/gnrlpgs/carbrebuild/carb35s.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /><img src='http://aircooled.net/images/gnrlpgs/carbrebuild/carb36s.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /><span style='font-family: Arial Helvetica sans-serif'>Many annoying carb problems are caused by DIRT. We have shown you these filters and carb caps, many people aren't aware they are available. On the left are some foam screens which fit tightly on the velocity stacks, and on the right are carb covers (to keep dust, gravel, and other stuff out. (Some wiseguys like to throw pennies and stuff into open carbs, so covering them up is a smart idea).</span><span style='font-family: Arial Helvetica sans-serif'>Here are the finished carbs! Notice the texture of the carb bodies (compare them to "before"). Also take note of the screens on the jet stack area. These should be left off for tuning purposes (they get in the way for lots of jet changes), but once you dial your carbs in, put them on to keep the carbs free of debris that might accumulate and sully your performance!</span><img src='http://aircooled.net/images/gnrlpgs/carbrebuild/carb37s.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /> <span style='font-family: Arial Helvetica sans-serif'>The photos above outline the basic steps and a highlight a few tips for rebuilding a set of 48 IDA's to like-new condition. The secret to a successful rebuild is to pay attention to details and to be a freak about cleanliness! You can achieve outstanding results if you apply patience and use the proper tools -- You won't succeed if you "gorilla" any of your carburetor's parts in or out. If you decide that you are capable and willing to tackle the job yourself, we carry a complete line of Weber parts: Weber rebuild kits, air filters, intakes, covers, and even all the small screws, nuts, and jets you may need for your carburetors! We can also supply carbs that are still in production (Progressives, ICT's, IDF's, DCNF's) if you aren't into the rebuild thing. </span><br />
<br />
<span style='font-family: Arial Helvetica sans-serif'>Special thanks to Art Thraen, of ACE VW for his cooperation and help to make this article possible. We recommend Art as a quality rebuilder if you feel like the task of rebuilding your own is "over your head".<br />
</span>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 20 Dec 2006 16:59:26 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=28</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>RX-2 and 3 Touring Cars</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=30</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<a href='http://ausrotary.dntinternet.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=89525' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>70's Touring Car Racing from Ausrotary</a> <br />
<br />
Very cool.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 20 Dec 2006 20:07:42 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=30</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Group N RX-2s at Eastern Creek Historics</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=32</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Group N RX-2s at Eastern Creek (Aus) <br />
Sat. Jun 25th 06<br />
<br />
<br />
<img src='http://www.turtle.net.au/ausrotary/RogersonRX2b.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /> <br />
<br />
<img src='http://www.turtle.net.au/ausrotary/RogersonMacri.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /> <br />
<br />
<img src='http://www.turtle.net.au/ausrotary/RogersonRX2a.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /> <br />
<br />
<img src='http://www.turtle.net.au/ausrotary/RogersonRX2engine.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /> <br />
<br />
<img src='http://www.turtle.net.au/ausrotary/Humblea.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /> <br />
<br />
<img src='http://www.turtle.net.au/ausrotary/Humbleb.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /> <br />
<br />
<img src='http://www.turtle.net.au/ausrotary/Humblec.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /> <br />
<br />
<img src='http://www.turtle.net.au/ausrotary/Humbled.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /> <br />
<br />
<img src='http://www.turtle.net.au/ausrotary/Humblee.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /> <br />
<br />
<img src='http://www.turtle.net.au/ausrotary/Humbleg.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /> <br />
<br />
<img src='http://www.turtle.net.au/ausrotary/Humbleeng1.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /> <br />
<br />
<img src='http://www.turtle.net.au/ausrotary/Humbleeng2.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /><br />
 <br />
<img src='http://www.turtle.net.au/ausrotary/HumbleLand.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /><br />
 <br />
Those Aussies always have the coolest shit...]]></description>
		<pubDate>Fri, 22 Dec 2006 22:41:01 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=32</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>RX8 Demotivational Image</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=33</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Made this a few months back, and thought i'd share...<br />
<br />
<img src='http://garx8club.com/Gallery/albums/Miscellaneous/rx_8.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' />]]></description>
		<pubDate>Fri, 29 Dec 2006 17:16:47 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=33</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Manuals and other stuff needed</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=34</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I'm looking to compile and host at least one copy of an FSM, parts manual, and owners manual for each car featured on VR. The hosting will likely be off the VR forum, from another member's site (or two, perhaps) and we can link there as a community. So much of this information is gone, and it's all out of print.<br />
<br />
I've compiled a few PDFs already, including Haynes manuals and stuff like that. If you have material that you'd share for the sake of scanning, or if you have one and want to contribute, please say so. Please <strong class='bbc'>DO NOT</strong> forward anything to us without permission from the original author. Even if you're just being helpful, it causes problems in the long run. If possible, please PM me a copy of a PM or email from the author just in case there's a problem down the road. I'd hate to undergo all this effort, only to be contacted by the original author and have to remove a file and rescan. <br />
<br />
That said, we currently have:<br />
<br />
1200 Parts (need FSM and owner's)<br />
Cosmo 110S Parts (ditto)<br />
R100 Parts (ditto x2)<br />
RX-2 FSM, Haynes, Clymer (Need parts and owner'sl)<br />
RX-3 FSM, Clymer and Parts (need owner's)<br />
RX-4 FSM (Aussie version only - need US, parts, owner's, etc...)<br />
Mazdaspeed Competition Catalog<br />
<br />
And the 80 and 85 FSM, plus all parts manuals from 79 up. There's also two Nikki carb manuals and Mazda's Competition Prep and Service Manual : an honest-to-God "How to race our RX-7s and make the front page for us" compilation.<br />
<br />
FTP info will be PM'd to contributing members. Please PM me or post here with any original or approved files.<br />
<br />
Thanks, y'all. <br />
Crit]]></description>
		<pubDate>Fri, 29 Dec 2006 18:37:51 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=34</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Looking for a few good pics</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=36</link>
		<description>VR is looking for some nice images of vintage rotaries to expand the header images in the skins. If you would like to submit a picture of you car for possible use, please respond to this thread with an image attachment. Pics should be roughly 1000 pixels wide and of good quality. Please make sure to post only if it is your car!.</description>
		<pubDate>Sun, 31 Dec 2006 05:34:24 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=36</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Skins</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=37</link>
		<description><![CDATA[You will notice the bottom left hand corner has a pull down box. This box will allow you to choose the "Skin" that will load each time you visit VR. Each "Skin" has different header image that corresponds with the model you choose.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Sun, 31 Dec 2006 16:12:20 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=37</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Manual / Tech Reference Master List</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=38</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<span style='font-size: 17px;'><strong class='bbc'><span style='color: #333333'><span style='font-family: Tahoma, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif'><span style='font-size: 15px;'><br />
<span style='font-family: Arial'>Vintage Rotaries </span><span style='font-family: Arial'>is proud to be able to offer the largest collection of scanned Mazda related factory service manuals, spec sheets, wiring diagrams and product literature on the internet. Please feel free to link to these resources by directly linking to this post: <a href='http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=38' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Vintage Rotaries Manuals</a></span></span></span></span></strong></span><br />
<span style='font-family: Arial'><span style='color: #333333'><span style='font-size: 15px;'><strong class='bbc'><br />
<span style='font-family: Tahoma, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif'><em class='bbc'><span style='font-family: Verdana, arial, sans-serif'> </span></em></span></strong></span></span></span><span style='font-family: Arial'><span style='color: #333333'><span style='font-size: 15px;'><strong class='bbc'><em class='bbc'><span style='font-family: Tahoma, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif'><span style='font-size: 15px;'><span style='font-size: 15px;'><div class='bbc_left'><span style='font-size: 15px;'><div class='bbc_left'><span style='font-size: 15px;'><div class='bbc_left'><span style='font-size: 15px;'><div class='bbc_left'><span style='font-size: 15px;'><div class='bbc_left'><span style='font-size: 15px;'><div class='bbc_left'><span style='font-size: 15px;'><div class='bbc_left'><span style='font-size: 15px;'><div class='bbc_left'><span style='font-size: 15px;'><div class='bbc_left'><span style='font-size: 15px;'><div class='bbc_left'><span style='font-size: 15px;'><div class='bbc_left'><span style='font-size: 15px;'><div class='bbc_left'><span style='font-size: 15px;'><div class='bbc_left'><span style='font-size: 15px;'><div class='bbc_left'><span style='font-size: 15px;'><span style='color: #666666'><span style='font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif'><span style='font-size: 13px;'><span style='font-size: 13px;'><strong class='bbc'><span style='color: #333333'><span style='font-family: Tahoma, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif'> </span></span></strong></span></span></span></span></span></div></span></div></span></div></span></div></span></div></span></div></span></div></span></div></span></div></span></div></span></div></span></div></span></div></span></div></span></span></span></em></strong></span></span></span><br />
<span style='color: #333333'><span style='font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif'><span style='font-size: 13px;'><br />
<strong class='bbc'>Cosmo 110S</strong><br />
<span style='font-size: 15px;'><div class='bbc_left'><ul class='bbc'><li><a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/Cosmo%20110S%20Parts.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Parts Manual</a></li></ul></div></span><span style='font-size: 15px;'><div class='bbc_left'><br />
<strong class='bbc'>R100</strong><br />
<span style='font-size: 15px;'><div class='bbc_left'><ul class='bbc'><li>Factory Service Manual, 1971: <a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/R100%20FSM,%201971,%20Large.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Large File</a> or <a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/R100%20FSM,%201971,%20Small.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Small File</a></li><li>Factory Service Manual, 1972: <a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/R100%20FSM,%201972,%20Large.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Large File</a> or <a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/R100%20FSM,%201972,%20Small.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Small File</a></li><li>Parts Manual, Vol. 1: <a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/R100%20Parts,%20Vol%201,%20Large.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Large File</a> or <a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/R100%20Parts,%20Vol%201,%20Small.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Small File</a></li><li>Parts Manual, Vol. 2: <a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/R100%20Parts,%20Vol%202,%20Large.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Large File</a> or <a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/R100%20Parts,%20Vol%202,%20Small.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Small File</a></li></ul><span style='font-size: 15px;'><div class='bbc_left'><br />
<strong class='bbc'>RX-2</strong><br />
<span style='font-size: 15px;'><div class='bbc_left'><ul class='bbc'><li>Factory Service Manual, 1971, RX-2 and 616: <a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/RX-2,%20616%20FSM,%201971,%20Large.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Large File</a> or <a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/RX-2,%20616%20FSM,%201971,%20Small.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Small File</a></li><li>Factory Service Manual, 1972: <a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/RX-2%20FSM%20Compilation,%201972,%20Large.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Large File</a> or <a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/RX-2%20FSM%20Compilation,%201972,%20Small.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Small File</a></li><li>Parts Manual, Series 1 (1971-1972): <a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/RX-2%20Parts,%20Series%201,%20Large.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Large File</a> or <a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/RX-2%20Parts,%20Series%201,%20Small.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Small File</a></li><li>Parts Manual, Series 2 (1972-1973): <a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/RX-2%20Parts,%20Series%202,%20Large.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Large File</a> or <a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/RX-2%20Parts,%20Series%202,%20Small.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Small File</a></li><li>Parts Manual, Series 3 (1974): <a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/RX-2%20Parts,%20Series%203,%20Large.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Large File</a> or <a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/RX-2%20Parts,%20Series%203,%20Small.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Small File</a></li><li><a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/RX-2%20Wiring,%201973.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Wiring Diagram, 1973</a></li><li><a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/RX-2%20Wiring,%201974.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Wiring Diagram, 1974</a></li></ul><span style='font-size: 15px;'><div class='bbc_left'><br />
<strong class='bbc'>RX-3 and RX-3 SP</strong><br />
<span style='font-size: 15px;'><div class='bbc_left'><ul class='bbc'><li>Engine Manual, 1972: <a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/RX-3%20Engine%20Manual,%201972,%20Large.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Large File</a> or <a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/RX-3%20Engine%20Manual,%201972,%20Small.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Small File</a></li><li>Factory Service Manual, 1975: <a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/RX-3%20FSM,%201975,%20Large.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Large File</a> or <a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/RX-3%20FSM,%201975,%20Small.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Small File</a></li><li>Factory Service Manual, 1977: <a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/RX-3%20SP%20FSM,%201977,%20Large.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Large File</a> or <a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/RX-3%20SP%20FSM,%201977,%20Small.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Small File</a></li><li>Parts Manual, Vol. 1A (Sedan and Coupe, Australian, European and General Export, RHD and LHD, Series 1, Rev. September, 1972): <a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/RX-3%20Parts,%20Vol%201A,%20Large.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Large File</a>or <a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/RX-3%20Parts,%20Vol%201A,%20Small.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Small File</a></li><li>Parts Manual, Vol. 1B (Sedan and Coupe, Australian, European, General, and British Export, RHD and LHD, Series 1-3, Rev. March 1973):<a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/RX-3%20Parts,%20Vol%201B,%20Large.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Large File</a>or <a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/RX-3%20Parts,%20Vol%201B,%20Small.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Small File</a></li><li>Parts Manual, Vol. 2 (1972, 1973 Sedan, Coupe and Rotary Wagon, U.S. and Canadian Export, Rev. April 1973): <a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/RX-3%20Parts,%20Vol%202,%20Large.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Large File</a> or <a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/RX-3%20Parts,%20Vol%202,%20Small.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Small File</a></li><li>Parts Manual, Vol. 3 (1974 Sedan and Coupe, Australian, European, Swedish and West German Export, Rev March 1974): <a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/RX-3%20Parts,%20Vol%203,%20Large.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Large File</a>or <a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/RX-3%20Parts,%20Vol%203,%20Small.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Small File</a></li><li>Parts Manual, Vol. 4 (1974, 1975 Coupe, Sedan and Rotary Wagon, US and Canadian Export, Rev January 1975): <a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/RX-3%20Parts,%20Vol%204,%20Large.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Large File</a> or <a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/RX-3%20Parts,%20Vol%204,%20Small.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Small File</a></li><li>Parts Manual, Vol. 5 (1976 Sedan, Coupe and Rotary Wagon, U.S. Export, Rev November 1975): <a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/RX-3%20Parts,%20Vol%205,%20Large.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Large File</a> or <a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/RX-3%20Parts,%20Vol%205,%20Small.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Small File</a></li><li><a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/RX-3%20Wiring,%201973.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Wiring Diagram, 1973</a></li><li><a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/RX-3%20Wiring,%201974.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Wiring Diagram, 1974</a></li><li><a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/RX-3%20Wiring,%201975.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Wiring Diagram, 1975</a></li><li>RX-3, 808 Workshop Manual: <a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/RX-3,%20808%20Workshop%20Manual,%20Large.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Large File</a> or <a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/RX-3,%20808%20Workshop%20Manual,%20Small.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Small File</a></li></ul><span style='font-size: 15px;'><div class='bbc_left'><br />
<strong class='bbc'>RX-4</strong><br />
<span style='font-size: 15px;'><div class='bbc_left'><ul class='bbc'><li>Factory Service Manual, 1974: <a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/RX-4%20FSM,%201974,%20Large.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Large File</a> or <a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/RX-4%20FSM,%201974,%20Small.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Small File</a></li><li>Factory Service Manual, 1975: <a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/RX-4%20FSM,%201975,%20Large.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Large File</a> or <a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/RX-4%20FSM,%201975,%20Small.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Small File</a></li><li>Factory Service Manual, 1977: <a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/RX-4%20FSM,%201977,%20Large.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Large File</a> or <a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/RX-4%20FSM,%201977,%20Small.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Small File</a></li><li><a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/RX-4%20Wiring,%201975.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Wiring Diagram, 1975</a></li><li><a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/RX-3%20Wiring,%201976.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'><a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/RX-4%20Wiring,%201976.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Wiring Diagram, 1976</a></a></li></ul><span style='font-size: 15px;'><div class='bbc_left'><br />
<strong class='bbc'>RX-5 (Cosmo)</strong><br />
<span style='font-size: 15px;'><div class='bbc_left'><ul class='bbc'><li>Factory Service Manual, 1977: <a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/RX-5%20FSM,%201977,%20Large.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Large File</a> or <a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/RX-5%20FSM,%201977,%20Small.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Small File</a></li><li>Parts Manual: <a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/RX-5%20Parts,%20Large.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Large File</a> or <a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/RX-5%20Parts,%20Small.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Small File</a></li><li><a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/RX-5%20Wiring,%201976.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Wiring Diagram. 1976</a></li></ul><span style='font-size: 15px;'><div class='bbc_left'><br />
<strong class='bbc'>REPU (Rotary Engine Pickup)</strong><br />
<span style='font-size: 15px;'><div class='bbc_left'><ul class='bbc'><li>Factory Service Manual, 1974: <a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/REPU%20FSM,%201974,%20Large.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Large File</a> or <a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/REPU%20FSM,%201974,%20Small.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Small File</a></li><li>Factory Service Manual, 1975: <a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/REPU%20FSM,%201975,%20Large.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Large File</a> or <a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/REPU%20FSM,%201975,%20Small.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Small File</a></li><li>Factory Service Manual, 1976: <a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/REPU%20FSM,%201976,%20Large.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Large File</a> or <a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/REPU%20FSM,%201976,%20Small.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Small File</a></li><li>Parts Manual, 1974: <a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/REPU%20Parts,%201974,%20Large.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Large File</a> or <a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/REPU%20Parts,%201974,%20Small.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Small File</a></li><li>Parts Manual, 1977: <a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/REPU%20Parts,%201977,%20Large.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Large File</a>, <a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/REPU%20Parts,%201977,%20Medium.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Medium File</a> or <a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/REPU%20Parts,%201977,%20Small.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Small File</a></li><li><a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/REPU%20Wiring,%201974.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Wiring Diagram, 1974</a></li><li><a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/REPU%20Wiring,%201975.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Wiring Diagram, 1975</a></li><li><a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/REPU%20Wiring,%201976.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Wiring Diagram, 1976</a></li><li><a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/REPU%20Wiring,%201977.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Wiring Diagram, 1977</a></li></ul><span style='font-size: 15px;'><div class='bbc_left'><br />
<strong class='bbc'>RX-7</strong><br />
<span style='font-size: 15px;'><div class='bbc_left'><ul class='bbc'><li>1985 Factory Service Manual: <a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/RX-7%20FSM,%201985,%20Large.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Large File</a> or <a href='http://iwankel.com/manuals/public/RX-7%20FSM,%201985,%20Small.pdf' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>Small File</a></li></ul></div></span></div></span></div></span></div></span></div></span></div></span></div></span></div></span></div></span></div></span></div></span></div></span></div></span></div></span></span></span></span>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Sun, 31 Dec 2006 23:03:45 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=38</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>RX-2 Parts Needed</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=41</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I need a good section of the rocker panels to recreate some for my Duece<br />
<br />
73 Dash End pieces<br />
<br />
Always looking for trim]]></description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 01 Jan 2007 02:29:05 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=41</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>RE SPEED</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=42</link>
		<description>Excellant parts, quick shipping. Listens to the needs of the community</description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 01 Jan 2007 02:32:48 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=42</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Dan Atkins</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=43</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Excellant description of used parts. fair pricing<br />
<br />
Thumbs UP]]></description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 01 Jan 2007 02:33:51 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=43</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>NASA, SCCA or HSR??????</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=44</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I desire to drive my ITA RX-3 on the track. The problem is what Sanctioning Body to race under, My previous experiences with the SCCA have not been pleasant. And when I am shelling out my hard earned money to "play"; I dont feel like arguing the mods of my car to an official because some checkbook racer is pissed a 30 year old POS is keeping up with his latest machine.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 01 Jan 2007 02:39:29 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=44</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Sponsors Needed</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=45</link>
		<description>The admin team here at the new VR has put this site together as a personal project.  As the site grows, we encourage prospective advertizers to contact the admin team if interested in banner space.  Please PM us if interested.</description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 01 Jan 2007 02:41:51 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=45</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>My Ride</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=46</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<img src='http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v365/wack-o-racer/DSC07327.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /><br />
<img src='http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v365/wack-o-racer/DSC07527.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /><br />
<img src='http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v365/wack-o-racer/DSC06877.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /><br />
<img src='http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v365/wack-o-racer/DSC04617.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' />]]></description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 01 Jan 2007 05:47:29 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=46</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Show me your carby turbo setups</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=47</link>
		<description><![CDATA[This will be my 1st message, some of you may know me from Ausrotary.com<br />
<br />
 <br />
<br />
I'm interested in seeing pictures and getting details and experiences from people running carburetor/turbo setups.  Blow thru, draw thru, holley, weber, solex or SU, if you are running one of these setups let me know.<br />
<br />
 <br />
<br />
There's a lack of information in Australia about these setups, and while I well know EFI is the best way to go, I'm prepared to live with the shortcomings of the carb setups just to have something different here.<br />
<br />
 <br />
<br />
Thanks guys and I look forward to seeing what you have.<br />
<br />
 <br />
<br />
Ian.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 01 Jan 2007 07:39:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=47</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>ORX-626 - 1982 Mazda 626 13BT</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=48</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<span style='font-size: 26px;'>Hi there, this is my 1982 Mazda 626 which I have owned since 1991....when I got my drivers licence.</span> <img src='http://www.vintagerotaries.org/public/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':D' /> <br />
<br />
<img src='http://www.ade.net.au/images/orx626/DSC00005.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /><br />
<br />
<img src='http://www.ade.net.au/images/orx626/DSC00006.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /><br />
<br />
<img src='http://krazyphotography.com/coppermine/albums/qrtrack/DSC_5057.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /><br />
<br />
<strong class='bbc'><span style='font-size: 36px;'>Specifications</span></strong><br />
<br />
<span style='font-size: 17px;'>Vehicle: Mazda 626 (CB2MS)<br />
Year: 1982<br />
Engine: Mazda RX-7 Series V 13B Turbo<br />
Turbo: Knightsports S320<br />
Gearbox: Mazda RX-7 Series V<br />
Differential: RX-7 Series II LSD<br />
Brakes: Mazda RX-7 Series V Front & Rear<br />
Brake Pads: Bendix Ultimate<br />
Wheels: ROH ZS 16 x 7<br />
Tyres Front : Yokohama A048R 195/50 R16<br />
Tyres Rear : Toyo R888 225/40 R16<br />
Exhaust: 3 inch dump through Cat with 2.5 inch rear section and custom mufflers<br />
Engine Management: Factory - Reprogrammed<br />
EFI Fuel Pump: Bosch 044<br />
Boost Controller: Apexi AVC-R<br />
Intercooler: ARE Air to Water<br />
<br />
<img src='http://www.ade.net.au/images/orx626/22-01-2006%20011.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /><br />
<br />
<img src='http://www.ade.net.au/images/orx626/23-01-2006%20005.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /><br />
<br />
<img src='http://www.ade.net.au/images/orx626/ORX-626%20hp-AF.JPG' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /><br />
<br />
<img src='http://www.ade.net.au/images/orx626/23-01-2006%20001.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /><br />
<br />
<img src='http://www.ade.net.au/images/orx626/26-11-2005%20005.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /><br />
<br />
Cheers,<br />
Danny<br />
</span>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 01 Jan 2007 11:26:26 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=48</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title><![CDATA[Dash Pads for RX-2's]]></title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=49</link>
		<description>Is anyone interested in fiberglass reproductions of the RX2 Dash Pads?</description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 01 Jan 2007 22:58:25 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=49</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>project (12a) 1000</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=50</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Hi my name is Josh and i have a mazda 1000 ute. I got it off some dude from down the road for $50 put it was practicly a rolling shell becouse the motor was blown. My plans for it is to get it as cleen as posible with white walls,hubbys and a fresh new white paint job.  Ive pulled the stock engine out readdy for the 12a thats going in it. The 12a shod be comeing next week then i will start the conversion. I will keep you people updated<br />
<br />
Cheers<br />
<br />
Josh.<br />
<br />
<div class='bbc_indent'> </div><div id='attach_wrap' class='rounded clearfix'>
	<h4></h4>
	<ul>
		
			<li class=''>
				<a class='resized_img' rel='lightbox[119]' id='ipb-attach-url-8-1283795290-09' href="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=8" title="P12_12_06_14.57.jpg -  178.08K,  38"><img src="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/uploads/monthly_01_2007/post-18-1167703983_thumb.jpg" id='ipb-attach-img-8-1283795290-09' style='width:100;height:75' class='attach' width="100" height="75" alt="" /></a>
			</li>
		

			<li class=''>
				<a class='resized_img' rel='lightbox[119]' id='ipb-attach-url-9-1283795290-09' href="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=9" title="P12_25_06_14.10.jpg -  123.54K,  28"><img src="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/uploads/monthly_01_2007/post-18-1167704161_thumb.jpg" id='ipb-attach-img-9-1283795290-09' style='width:100;height:75' class='attach' width="100" height="75" alt="" /></a>
			</li>
		
	</ul>
</div>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 02 Jan 2007 02:18:18 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=50</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Inner tie rods for 73 rx2 sedan</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=51</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<a class='resized_img' rel='lightbox[120]' id='ipb-attach-url-10-1283795290-09' href="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=10" title="inner_tie_rod_003.jpg -  89.8K,  14"><img src="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/uploads/monthly_01_2007/post-23-1167709290_thumb.jpg" id='ipb-attach-img-10-1283795290-09' style='width:100;height:75' class='attach' width="100" height="75" alt="" /></a>Here is a couple of pics of the old inner tie rods I have on my rx2. I am having trouble finding repl. parts for them. I ordered some from Rob Mills in Australia and he sent me shorter straight one's. Does anyone know if these are the correct inner tie rods for this year rx2-1973 or do I have some other tie rods from another model, year, make? Also, where can I get some replacements? <br />
<br />
Crit, are you out there?]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 02 Jan 2007 03:42:36 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=51</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Mazda 808 project</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=52</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Hi everyone,<br />
This is my mazda 808 that I purchased for $100 off some dude that neede some drugs <img src='http://www.vintagerotaries.org/public/style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':lol:' /> . It is stock at the moment just the 1600cc (the p word) engine and a auto but currently changing it from auto to manual. It has a lot of rust in both front doors but I have bought some RX3 doors. I am currently respraying it but not sure what colour so any suggestions are welcome. My plan is to put a 13BT in when i get a good job but until then i am just getting it all neat and tidy.<br />
<br />
cheers<br />
Mick<br />
<br />
<a class='resized_img' rel='lightbox[121]' id='ipb-attach-url-12-1283795290-09' href="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=12" title="my_808.jpg -  33.33K,  36"><img src="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/uploads/monthly_01_2007/post-34-1167710419_thumb.jpg" id='ipb-attach-img-12-1283795290-09' style='width:100;height:75' class='attach' width="100" height="75" alt="" /></a>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 02 Jan 2007 04:01:06 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=52</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>General Ground-up Resto Progression</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=53</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Guys,<br />
<br />
  I've never done a ground-up before, but am, maybe, 1/3 of the way through mine.  I'd hate to find out that I'm wasting time and effort down the road by skipping steps or going out of order.  For instance, do hydraulics and wiring need to be in before the engine?  Can the headliner go in after the windshield, or is the glass best left for the end?  Here's my attempt at the best / easiest progression.<br />
<br />
Strip the car and lose half the nuts and bolts - check.<br />
Rust repair, bodywork, paint - check.<br />
Engine rebuild / repaint - check.<br />
Suspension rebuild - check (as of today, it's finally back on the ground)<br />
Brakes (Powdercoat, rebuild internals, rear disc upgrade)<br />
Steering (tie rods, steering box, ball joints etc but no column yet) - check.<br />
Motor and trans back in loosely, just to free up space in the garage.<br />
<br />
I think my next steps will be:<br />
Brake and fuel hard lines<br />
Wiring (debating reusing the harness vs. make a new one)<br />
Radiator, fan, coils and steering column<br />
Door rubbers, felts, strikers and latches<br />
Side glass<br />
Sound deadening in roof, floor pan, doors<br />
Carpet and headliner<br />
Dash, console and gauges<br />
Seats<br />
Glass<br />
<br />
Am I missing anything major or going about something wrong?]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 02 Jan 2007 12:54:04 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=53</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>WTB: Rx2 and Rx3 Suspension Parts</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=54</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I am looking for:<br />
<br />
1) Strut Housing, Rx3.<br />
1) Strut Housing, Rx2.<br />
1) Front Lower Control Arm, Rx3.<br />
1) Front Lower Control Arm, Rx2.<br />
1) Steering Knuckle, Rx3.<br />
1) Steering Knuckle, Rx2.<br />
<br />
All must be in usable condition. Do not care which side. PM me with anything you might have. Price shipped to 30052 please.<br />
<br />
-billy]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 02 Jan 2007 15:18:08 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=54</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>WTB:  Mics. RX-2 Parts</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=55</link>
		<description><![CDATA[As my car comes together, there are a number of odds and ends that I'm looking for:<br />
<br />
Stainless lip at leading edge of hood<br />
HVAC lever knobs<br />
Rear side-window inner edging cover (little black thing with one screw at rear corner of window)<br />
Driveshaft carrier bearing w/ support<br />
Rubber strut top plugs<br />
Defroster Vents (if still intact)<br />
SA short-shift kit<br />
Them real long bolts that pass through the frame and into the steering box. <img src='http://www.vintagerotaries.org/public/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' /><br />
Hood bump stops<br />
<br />
Vented Hood (only from early models, I think)<br />
LF Fender<br />
Lower front valence]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 02 Jan 2007 15:34:09 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=55</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>FS:  NOS Mulholland RX-2 Shocks</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=56</link>
		<description>I have a set of NOS Mulholland-brand RX-2 shocks. Still unused in the original box, and ready to go.</description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 02 Jan 2007 15:35:28 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=56</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Name your first rotary.</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=57</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Ok guys, I will pop the cherry on the lounge...... Name your first rotor motor car and your fondest memory of it......<br />
  <br />
  <br />
  1978 Mazda Rx3 SP, all factory. I was 16. Blue with black stripes. Came with the factory cow plow front spoiler. Loved that car. Fondest memory was making it home one night using a shoe string as a throttle cable <img src='http://www.vintagerotaries.org/public/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' /><br />
  <br />
  -billy]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 02 Jan 2007 16:07:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=57</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>My 1st Rotary</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=58</link>
		<description><![CDATA[My 1st Rotary was a 1983 Mazda RX-7 limited edition, Brown w/ tan-red stripped cloth interior. The end of that puppy came one day after driving it in the rain, after throwing a hard 3rd gear, the rear end slipped to the right and at that moment the tires gripped and Bam right into the passenger door of a Ford Pinto I went. Smashed the complete front end and damaging the frame. So after that I met a few guys that help me put it back together and have since owned Old School Rotaries. Thanks to Edgar "El Unico" and Mickey "Nightmare" from Chicago Illinois. Check out this link and take a look at my Past & Future Mazda Rotary Projects. <a href='http://www.cardomain.com/ride/739063' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>http://www.cardomain.com/ride/739063</a>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 03 Jan 2007 17:56:14 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=58</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>The American work force</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=59</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Here is my situation. I am in need of 10 guys or gals immediately for a long term manufacturing project. The products are as high tech as you can get. The customers have money and future growth. The work force needed for this type of labor is bright, able to work with their hands, punctual and long term oriented. The budget I have for these people is $15 to start with gradual raises up to $22 per hour top pay.<br />
  <br />
  Why is it difficult to find applicants? Why is it that only one out of ten of them work out? Have we gone to a society where we do not work with our hands? If you watch all the house flipping , chopper building shows you would think there are a slew of people capable. Is it the pay scale? <br />
  <br />
  Why can I find qualified and enthusiastic personnel to import from Europe but can't locate the same here? Under the new laws the work visa have gone away for us to do this. If we are to hire American workers for this rather than import them, where are they?<br />
  <br />
  Not looking for you to fix my labor issues but, have any thoughts on American labor force?]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 03 Jan 2007 18:28:34 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=59</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Wiring Harness Replacement Options</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=60</link>
		<description><![CDATA[My under dash wiring is toast and under the hood isnt much better.<br />
<br />
I am considering the American AutoWire Highway 15 Panel (~$275 shipped) <br />
<br />
Has anyone used it or any of the competition? PAinless/Ron Francis etc?]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 03 Jan 2007 22:13:03 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=60</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>ReSpeed Widebody</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=61</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Here is our current project. 1982 with IMSA wide body package. Picked the car up for $600. One picture of the day we brought it home and two of the first day a dis-assembly<br />
<br />
-billy<div id='attach_wrap' class='rounded clearfix'>
	<h4></h4>
	<ul>
		
			<li class=''>
				<a class='resized_img' rel='lightbox[161]' id='ipb-attach-url-14-1283795290-11' href="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=14" title="Picture2_012.jpg -  203.55K,  89"><img src="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/uploads/monthly_01_2007/post-37-1167863026_thumb.jpg" id='ipb-attach-img-14-1283795290-11' style='width:100;height:75' class='attach' width="100" height="75" alt="" /></a>
			</li>
		

			<li class=''>
				<a class='resized_img' rel='lightbox[161]' id='ipb-attach-url-15-1283795290-11' href="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=15" title="Picture2_051.jpg -  121.03K,  75"><img src="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/uploads/monthly_01_2007/post-37-1167863156_thumb.jpg" id='ipb-attach-img-15-1283795290-11' style='width:100;height:75' class='attach' width="100" height="75" alt="" /></a>
			</li>
		

			<li class=''>
				<a class='resized_img' rel='lightbox[161]' id='ipb-attach-url-16-1283795290-11' href="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=16" title="Picture2_052.jpg -  107.52K,  88"><img src="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/uploads/monthly_01_2007/post-37-1167863178_thumb.jpg" id='ipb-attach-img-16-1283795290-11' style='width:100;height:75' class='attach' width="100" height="75" alt="" /></a>
			</li>
		
	</ul>
</div>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 03 Jan 2007 22:23:54 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=61</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>New post button</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=62</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Where is it?  Makes postwhoring easier...it meant to say for monitoring new posts. <img src='http://www.vintagerotaries.org/public/style_emoticons/default/cool.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt='B)' />]]></description>
		<pubDate>Thu, 04 Jan 2007 00:22:18 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=62</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Open Invite for prospective home owners</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=63</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I'll put out a standing invitation for anyone looking for a quiet racetrack-backed neighborhood.  You provide the house, I'll bring all the barbeque and beer you can stand.<br />
<br />
Every Day.<br />
<br />
Forever.<br />
<br />
Seriously, the cops will have to kick me out of your house.  The only catch is that you have to let me come over in order take advantage of my fine offer.<br />
<br />
<a href='http://www.unlimitedspeed.net/site02.html' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>http://www.unlimitedspeed.net/site02.html</a><br />
<br />
Anybody have a couple $mil for a rainy day?]]></description>
		<pubDate>Thu, 04 Jan 2007 03:52:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=63</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>FS:mazda 1000ute rolling shell.</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=64</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Hi guys i am selling my mazda 1000ute (rolling shell).<br />
it has a dented left door and small dent just behind that.<br />
the front drivers side gard has a dent in it as seen in the pics.<br />
<br />
PRICE:offers.<br />
<br />
Cheers<br />
Josh<br />
<div class='bbc_indent'><br />
<br />
</div><div id='attach_wrap' class='rounded clearfix'>
	<h4></h4>
	<ul>
		
			<li class=''>
				<a class='resized_img' rel='lightbox[177]' id='ipb-attach-url-17-1283795290-12' href="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=17" title="P12_12_06_14.57.jpg -  178.08K,  41"><img src="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/uploads/monthly_01_2007/post-18-1167883631_thumb.jpg" id='ipb-attach-img-17-1283795290-12' style='width:100;height:75' class='attach' width="100" height="75" alt="" /></a>
			</li>
		
	</ul>
</div>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Thu, 04 Jan 2007 04:10:23 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=64</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>rx8 line drawing</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=65</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<img src='http://komaru.org/gallery2/d/1461-1/red.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /><br />
<br />
line drawing of an rx8 a did a few months ago...<br />
<br />
hmm, all of my works seem to be from a few months ago. stupid work is interfering with my creative output <img src='http://www.vintagerotaries.org/public/style_emoticons/default/dry.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt='&lt;_&lt;' />]]></description>
		<pubDate>Thu, 04 Jan 2007 04:19:58 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=65</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>FS:RX3 SP taillights</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=66</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I have a set of rx3 tailights that I want to sell and im taking offers<br />
<br />
cheers<br />
Mick]]></description>
		<pubDate>Fri, 05 Jan 2007 00:46:14 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=66</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>75/RX-808</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=67</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Hello All <br />
 I just want to thanks all of you that put this website back online! <img src='http://www.vintagerotaries.org/public/style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':rolleyes:' /> <br />
        We just need all the info we had before, it was my pool of knowledge kept my project alive.<br />
 Here some old picts, Since the pictures, I installed the GC coilover kit, REspeed camber plates and removed the middle leafspring out of the rear, it looks really good, in the pictures looks high because the engine is out! <br />
thanks all, <br />
Andres.<div id='attach_wrap' class='rounded clearfix'>
	<h4></h4>
	<ul>
		
			<li class=''>
				<a class='resized_img' rel='lightbox[187]' id='ipb-attach-url-18-1283795290-12' href="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=18" title="CIMG0079.JPG -  130.24K,  56"><img src="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/uploads/monthly_01_2007/post-49-1167972220_thumb.jpg" id='ipb-attach-img-18-1283795290-12' style='width:100;height:75' class='attach' width="100" height="75" alt="" /></a>
			</li>
		

			<li class=''>
				<a class='resized_img' rel='lightbox[187]' id='ipb-attach-url-19-1283795290-12' href="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=19" title="CIMG0081.JPG -  129.6K,  48"><img src="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/uploads/monthly_01_2007/post-49-1167972241_thumb.jpg" id='ipb-attach-img-19-1283795290-12' style='width:100;height:75' class='attach' width="100" height="75" alt="" /></a>
			</li>
		

			<li class=''>
				<a class='resized_img' rel='lightbox[187]' id='ipb-attach-url-20-1283795290-12' href="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=20" title="CIMG0082.JPG -  125.27K,  42"><img src="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/uploads/monthly_01_2007/post-49-1167972254_thumb.jpg" id='ipb-attach-img-20-1283795290-12' style='width:100;height:75' class='attach' width="100" height="75" alt="" /></a>
			</li>
		
	</ul>
</div>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Fri, 05 Jan 2007 04:50:25 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=67</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>RX-3 Aluminum dash replacement</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=68</link>
		<description>Where can I get one?</description>
		<pubDate>Fri, 05 Jan 2007 15:55:17 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=68</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Need more smilies</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=69</link>
		<description><![CDATA[nuff said  <img src='http://www.vintagerotaries.org/public/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=';)' />]]></description>
		<pubDate>Fri, 05 Jan 2007 23:37:32 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=69</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title><![CDATA[Crit's 74 RX-2]]></title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=70</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Well, here's my RX-2 as it sits today. I added spacers under the rear spring perches to precompress the springs, just enough so my rear suspension wouldn't rattle over speedbumps. As a result, it raised the rear 1.5", which was sagging when the car was whole. Once the car's back together, I might change that to make the stance right. Once my idler is rebuilt and my center steering link is back in, I think I'll move to the wiring.<div id='attach_wrap' class='rounded clearfix'>
	<h4></h4>
	<ul>
		
			<li class=''>
				<a class='resized_img' rel='lightbox[199]' id='ipb-attach-url-22-1283795290-13' href="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=22" title="Picture_005.JPG -  111.23K,  125"><img src="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/uploads/monthly_01_2007/post-2-1168058086_thumb.jpg" id='ipb-attach-img-22-1283795290-13' style='width:100;height:76' class='attach' width="100" height="76" alt="" /></a>
			</li>
		

			<li class=''>
				<a class='resized_img' rel='lightbox[199]' id='ipb-attach-url-23-1283795290-13' href="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=23" title="IMG_0353.JPG -  341.93K,  58"><img src="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/uploads/monthly_01_2007/post-2-1168058472_thumb.jpg" id='ipb-attach-img-23-1283795290-13' style='width:100;height:75' class='attach' width="100" height="75" alt="" /></a>
			</li>
		

			<li class=''>
				<a class='resized_img' rel='lightbox[199]' id='ipb-attach-url-24-1283795290-13' href="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=24" title="IMG_0356.JPG -  278.26K,  45"><img src="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/uploads/monthly_01_2007/post-2-1168059038_thumb.jpg" id='ipb-attach-img-24-1283795290-13' style='width:100;height:75' class='attach' width="100" height="75" alt="" /></a>
			</li>
		

			<li class=''>
				<a class='resized_img' rel='lightbox[199]' id='ipb-attach-url-25-1283795290-13' href="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=25" title="IMG_0354.JPG -  277.16K,  56"><img src="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/uploads/monthly_01_2007/post-2-1168059111_thumb.jpg" id='ipb-attach-img-25-1283795290-13' style='width:100;height:75' class='attach' width="100" height="75" alt="" /></a>
			</li>
		

			<li class=''>
				<a class='resized_img' rel='lightbox[199]' id='ipb-attach-url-26-1283795290-13' href="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=26" title="IMG_0355.JPG -  189.12K,  26"><img src="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/uploads/monthly_01_2007/post-2-1168059125_thumb.jpg" id='ipb-attach-img-26-1283795290-13' style='width:100;height:75' class='attach' width="100" height="75" alt="" /></a>
			</li>
		

			<li class=''>
				<a class='resized_img' rel='lightbox[199]' id='ipb-attach-url-27-1283795290-13' href="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=27" title="IMG_0357.JPG -  242.52K,  21"><img src="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/uploads/monthly_01_2007/post-2-1168059140_thumb.jpg" id='ipb-attach-img-27-1283795290-13' style='width:100;height:75' class='attach' width="100" height="75" alt="" /></a>
			</li>
		

			<li class=''>
				<a class='resized_img' rel='lightbox[199]' id='ipb-attach-url-28-1283795290-13' href="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=28" title="IMG_0358.JPG -  258.76K,  18"><img src="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/uploads/monthly_01_2007/post-2-1168059159_thumb.jpg" id='ipb-attach-img-28-1283795290-13' style='width:100;height:75' class='attach' width="100" height="75" alt="" /></a>
			</li>
		
	</ul>
</div>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Sat, 06 Jan 2007 04:38:43 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=70</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Good Restoration Resource</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=71</link>
		<description><![CDATA[www.vintagerotarydecals.com<br />
<br />
EXCELLANT Products]]></description>
		<pubDate>Sat, 06 Jan 2007 07:35:34 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=71</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Shorter Rear Shocks RX-3</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=72</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Hello all <br />
 I lowered the rear of my car by removing a leaf spring , now it has height i was looking for,but now the rear shocks are bottoming out.<br />
      i need a shock that are about 2 inch shorter than the stock ones.<br />
  I went to Napa and they could not find one and claim such a shock didnt exist! (the guy didnt put too much effort in my opinion) <br />
           i wrote to a few shock companies but not ansers.  does anybody has a part number for the shock i need??? <br />
Andres.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Sat, 06 Jan 2007 14:22:23 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=72</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>pitman arm help for 73 rx2</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=73</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I'm going crazy trying to find out what's going on with my pitman arm and tie rods. Lets start with the pitman arm. Here are two pics of the old and the new pitman arm side by side. In the first pic notice the ball joints are both pointing up but the steering stop bolt is way off and the large keyway spline is 180 off. In the second pic the new arm is turned around 180. Now the steering stop bolt is on the right side and the large keyway spline lines up but now obviously the ball joint is pointing down. Also there is an "R" stamped on the arm. I'm wondering if I got an arm for a right hand steering car from Australia, etc. Anybody have any ideas?<div id='attach_wrap' class='rounded clearfix'>
	<h4></h4>
	<ul>
		
			<li class=''>
				<a class='resized_img' rel='lightbox[212]' id='ipb-attach-url-29-1283795290-14' href="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=29" title="pitman_arm_001.jpg -  120.14K,  35"><img src="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/uploads/monthly_01_2007/post-23-1168126061_thumb.jpg" id='ipb-attach-img-29-1283795290-14' style='width:100;height:75' class='attach' width="100" height="75" alt="" /></a>
			</li>
		

			<li class=''>
				<a class='resized_img' rel='lightbox[212]' id='ipb-attach-url-30-1283795290-14' href="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=30" title="pitman_arm_002.jpg -  118.54K,  27"><img src="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/uploads/monthly_01_2007/post-23-1168126072_thumb.jpg" id='ipb-attach-img-30-1283795290-14' style='width:100;height:75' class='attach' width="100" height="75" alt="" /></a>
			</li>
		
	</ul>
</div>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Sat, 06 Jan 2007 23:28:03 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=73</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Pacific Avatar</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=74</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Ok, so does anyone else have one of these or am I the only one?  I'm sure that everyone on here is either on nopistons or on the evil forum so you've probably seen my restoration thread.  So if anyone else has one speak up!  It would be great to find another PA out there.  I've seen a couple of FB's that have had the tops cut off, but no other Avatars.  <br />
<br />
Zach]]></description>
		<pubDate>Sun, 07 Jan 2007 01:48:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=74</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>My ride</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=75</link>
		<description><![CDATA[It's just starting out in it's restoration journey, but it will be beautiful soon enough.  <br />
<br />
<img src='http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i253/Boostedrex7/PA/22.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /><br />
<br />
Zach]]></description>
		<pubDate>Sun, 07 Jan 2007 01:56:04 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=75</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>My 73 RX3 mini racer</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=77</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Hey guys great to see the site up and running once again.....Heres my project, now with a new street port motor, still need to be broken in and tuned but other wise its driveable. finally got my lazy arss to install the flares.<div id='attach_wrap' class='rounded clearfix'>
	<h4></h4>
	<ul>
		
			<li class=''>
				<a class='resized_img' rel='lightbox[228]' id='ipb-attach-url-32-1283795290-15' href="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=32" title="9.jpg -  18.7K,  48"><img src="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/uploads/monthly_01_2007/post-42-1168151546_thumb.jpg" id='ipb-attach-img-32-1283795290-15' style='width:86;height:100' class='attach' width="86" height="100" alt="" /></a>
			</li>
		

			<li class=''>
				<a class='resized_img' rel='lightbox[228]' id='ipb-attach-url-33-1283795290-15' href="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=33" title="Picture_0012.JPG -  30.6K,  96"><img src="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/uploads/monthly_01_2007/post-42-1168151559_thumb.jpg" id='ipb-attach-img-33-1283795290-15' style='width:100;height:75' class='attach' width="100" height="75" alt="" /></a>
			</li>
		

			<li class=''>
				<a class='resized_img' rel='lightbox[228]' id='ipb-attach-url-34-1283795290-15' href="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=34" title="Picture_1030.jpg -  27.45K,  68"><img src="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/uploads/monthly_01_2007/post-42-1168151566_thumb.jpg" id='ipb-attach-img-34-1283795290-15' style='width:100;height:76' class='attach' width="100" height="76" alt="" /></a>
			</li>
		
	</ul>
</div>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Sun, 07 Jan 2007 06:39:20 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=77</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>VRD</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=78</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Juan is back!!!!<br />
<br />
Excellant products, quick shipping, fair pricing]]></description>
		<pubDate>Sun, 07 Jan 2007 22:52:48 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=78</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title><![CDATA[Wtd:Mazda Factory Race parts & numbers]]></title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=79</link>
		<description><![CDATA[G'Day<br />
Need MFR part numbers from the 70's (rx-3 stuff) & parts.<br />
REgards]]></description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 08 Jan 2007 10:32:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=79</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Wheel refinishing</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=80</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I want to have the center sections of these wheels sand blasted and then re-powder coated (powder coated back to gold like they are now) as well as have the dishes buffed out.  Is that something that would be as simple as I think or should I send them off to a shop to do?  If I should send it off, does anyone have any recommendations?  I'm located in Cali so the closer the better due to shipping costs.  Here's a pic of the wheels.  Thanks in advance for your help everyone.<br />
<br />
<img src='http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i253/Boostedrex7/PA/Week%201/121.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /><br />
<br />
Zach]]></description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 08 Jan 2007 20:00:55 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=80</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>1975 REPU For Sale</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=81</link>
		<description><![CDATA[1975 Flare Yellow REPU for sale. I had it on eBay about a week ago. If you missed the auction, let me know and I can email more pics if interested. 95% complete and all original except wheels and tires (has Toyota 4Runner wheels). Truck has several surface rust spots, but only one spot that has rusted through- a small spot slightly smaller than a dime in the bed. No other rust through anywhere that I can find. Floors, rockers, door posts, etc. in excellent condition. Has original 4port 13B and 4-speed trans. Truck has not been on road since 1989. Engine turns over by hand, but I never tried to get it to run. Wouldn't take too much to put this one back on the road again. I am selling for three reasons- no time to restore it, no space to store it indoors, and I don't want it to become a parts truck on my watch. It is way too straight and clean to do that (or at least for me to do that). Just want it to go to someone who has time to mess with it. No A/C. $1600. Need to sell it in the next month if it is going to go, as I have five more cars coming in. Need the space. Neal 616-225-0780.<div id='attach_wrap' class='rounded clearfix'>
	<h4></h4>
	<ul>
		
			<li class=''>
				<a class='resized_img' rel='lightbox[277]' id='ipb-attach-url-40-1283795290-15' href="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=40" title="IM001778.JPG -  133.54K,  27"><img src="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/uploads/monthly_01_2007/post-60-1168393086_thumb.jpg" id='ipb-attach-img-40-1283795290-15' style='width:100;height:75' class='attach' width="100" height="75" alt="" /></a>
			</li>
		

			<li class=''>
				<a class='resized_img' rel='lightbox[277]' id='ipb-attach-url-41-1283795290-15' href="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=41" title="IM001781.JPG -  140.41K,  30"><img src="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/uploads/monthly_01_2007/post-60-1168393110_thumb.jpg" id='ipb-attach-img-41-1283795290-15' style='width:100;height:75' class='attach' width="100" height="75" alt="" /></a>
			</li>
		

			<li class=''>
				<a class='resized_img' rel='lightbox[277]' id='ipb-attach-url-42-1283795290-15' href="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=42" title="IM001763.JPG -  99.46K,  25"><img src="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/uploads/monthly_01_2007/post-60-1168393136_thumb.jpg" id='ipb-attach-img-42-1283795290-15' style='width:100;height:75' class='attach' width="100" height="75" alt="" /></a>
			</li>
		
	</ul>
</div>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 10 Jan 2007 01:22:57 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=81</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Breaking the ice...</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=82</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<a class='resized_img' rel='lightbox[278]' id='ipb-attach-url-39-1283795290-16' href="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=39" title="100_1166.JPG -  53.5K,  33"><img src="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/uploads/monthly_01_2007/post-59-1168392240_thumb.jpg" id='ipb-attach-img-39-1283795290-16' style='width:100;height:67' class='attach' width="100" height="67" alt="" /></a>I thought I would post a pic of my repu to get this section going. Lets see some more.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 10 Jan 2007 01:26:11 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=82</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Available: Rear section patch panel for rx-3</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=83</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Patch panel cut from an rx-3 before it was recycled.  From around the taillights/below the trunklid to behind the rear bumper.  Unrestored original rx-3 sheetmetal.  Should still be of use to someone needing to repair the rear of their three...  <br />
<br />
Show some interest and send me an email, and I'll dig it out and take some pics of it.  Don't really have a good idea of it's value, so I'll say $100.00 or best offer.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 10 Jan 2007 19:25:09 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=83</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Hitachi carburetors:</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=85</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Just thought there might be a need for a thread about the good ol' stock Hitachi, love it or hate it... you know the one, the little 4-barrel that could, the one that predates the Nikki and the seven. <img src='http://www.vintagerotaries.org/public/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=';)' />]]></description>
		<pubDate>Fri, 12 Jan 2007 01:15:13 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=85</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Pics of my Cosmo</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=86</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Kind of ugly but here it is<br />
<br />
<img src='http://www.matthewnanney.com/images/Cosmo/Cosmo-006.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
More here.<br />
<br />
<a href='http://www.matthewnanney.com/76Cosmo.htm' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>http://www.matthewnanney.com/76Cosmo.htm</a>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Fri, 12 Jan 2007 19:12:17 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=86</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Where to buy complete carpet in US?</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=87</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Hello All <br />
 any one knows where i can get the carpet kit for my 75 Rx-808? <br />
   i dont want to pay more for shipping than for the actual carpet!!<br />
Andres]]></description>
		<pubDate>Sun, 14 Jan 2007 16:38:43 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=87</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>engine mods</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=88</link>
		<description><![CDATA[hello i'm trying to install a supercharged 13b engine in my 1974 rx-3 i;ve run into a small problem the supercharger hits the strut tower. <img src='http://www.vintagerotaries.org/public/style_emoticons/default/huh.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':huh:' /> can any help with this small  situation]]></description>
		<pubDate>Sun, 14 Jan 2007 19:22:38 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=88</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>4x110 wheels</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=89</link>
		<description>Looking for any nice preferably 15x7 4x110 wheels. Thanks</description>
		<pubDate>Sun, 14 Jan 2007 19:26:16 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=89</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>73 rx2 sedan 20b project</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=90</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Here's my wreck. My plans are 20bt with fd trans., LSD out of 82 gsl until it grenades then eventually upgrade to something stronger- poss. Ford 9. I just got done rebuilding the front end. New koni strut inserts, ball joints, bushings, tie rods, wheel bearings and converted to male studs on the hubs. The only thing I need for the front is the pitman arm so let me know if you guys see any out there for me. <br />
<br />
Next up is body and paint. Then the 20b project starts. Rene is going to help me out with that. Should be the first 3 rotor 4 door rx2 around here in Cali that I know of. Rene has a rx2 coupe 3 rotor and wacky's cousin is putting one in a rx3sp. Damn there are going to be alot of old school 3 rotors prowling So Cal. Should be a crazy ride! Here are some pics of the car when I first got it about 3 months ago. It has a 12a and 5 speed out of a first gen and the body is in pretty good shape. Needs some minor body work and paint and she'll look pretty good. Interior is going to be last and I don't have much planned as this isn't going to be a show car. I plan on just throwing in some race seats for now. Let me know what you guys think and feel free to post any questions or comments. Thanks<div id='attach_wrap' class='rounded clearfix'>
	<h4></h4>
	<ul>
		
			<li class=''>
				<a class='resized_img' rel='lightbox[339]' id='ipb-attach-url-46-1283795290-17' href="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=46" title="rx2_006__600_x_450_.jpg -  68.94K,  42"><img src="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/uploads/monthly_01_2007/post-23-1168824469_thumb.jpg" id='ipb-attach-img-46-1283795290-17' style='width:100;height:76' class='attach' width="100" height="76" alt="" /></a>
			</li>
		
	</ul>
</div>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 15 Jan 2007 01:33:03 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=90</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Pict of my dash gauges</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=91</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Hello all<br />
this are my new Autometer Z series gauges, Tach/Speedo and Boost,<br />
on the shifter console Oil/Water/Volts,<br />
under glove box am not sure what to add, i might just not use it. I still need a place for fuel gauge, not sure where to put it <img src='http://www.vintagerotaries.org/public/style_emoticons/default/sad.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':(' /> <br />
<br />
Andres.<br />
<br />
<br />
PS: thanks Wacky for the picture tutorial! <img src='http://www.vintagerotaries.org/public/style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':P' /> <br />
<br />
<br />
<a href='http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p290/RotorRican/CIMG0027.jpg' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'><img src='http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p290/RotorRican/th_CIMG0027.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /></a><br />
<a href='http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p290/RotorRican/CIMG0025.jpg' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'><img src='http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p290/RotorRican/th_CIMG0025.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /></a><br />
<a href='http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p290/RotorRican/CIMG0024.jpg' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'><img src='http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p290/RotorRican/th_CIMG0024.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /></a><br />
<a href='http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p290/RotorRican/CIMG0023.jpg' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'><img src='http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p290/RotorRican/th_CIMG0023.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /></a><br />
<a href='http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p290/RotorRican/CIMG0022.jpg' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'><img src='http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p290/RotorRican/th_CIMG0022.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /></a><br />
<a href='http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p290/RotorRican/CIMG0021.jpg' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'><img src='http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p290/RotorRican/th_CIMG0021.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /></a><br />
<a href='http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p290/RotorRican/CIMG0020.jpg' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'><img src='http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p290/RotorRican/th_CIMG0020.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /></a><br />
<a href='http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p290/RotorRican/CIMG0019.jpg' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'><img src='http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p290/RotorRican/th_CIMG0019.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /></a><br />
<a href='http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p290/RotorRican/CIMG0018.jpg' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'><img src='http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p290/RotorRican/th_CIMG0018.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /></a><br />
<a href='http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p290/RotorRican/CIMG0017.jpg' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'><img src='http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p290/RotorRican/th_CIMG0017.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /></a><br />
<a href='http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p290/RotorRican/CIMG0016.jpg' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'><img src='http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p290/RotorRican/th_CIMG0016.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /></a>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 15 Jan 2007 04:03:29 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=91</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>82 rx7</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=92</link>
		<description><![CDATA[One of them fancy 'new' cars.<br />
<br />
82 GSL.  Picked it up relatively cheap.  Wanting to build a track car and hopefully do IT-7 with it.  102k miles, decent condition, not much rust, and it has working AC during the build process <img src='http://www.vintagerotaries.org/public/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' />.  <br />
<br />
Currently we are in the process of doing the suspension.  Back is complete, Tokico Illuminas, 175 or 200 lb springs (gotta remember), new poly bushings (except on the watts linkage).  Simple stuff.<br />
<br />
Front will be Tokico Illuminas, Respeed drop on coilover set up, caster/camber plates, doing all new ball joints/bushings, 350lb springs, Racing Beat sway bar.  We'll see how the shocks hold up.  But, gotta get the oil pan leaks straightened out first (missing pan bolts, unreal).<br />
<br />
Wheels, I just got some 15x7 Konig Rewinds for the street.  Track I'll probably end up with some Team Dynamics or something.  The rewinds are too much of a PITA to change (deep bolt holes).<br />
<br />
From there it'll be remove the interior, redo some wiring, new exhaust, then probably look at doing the cage.<div id='attach_wrap' class='rounded clearfix'>
	<h4></h4>
	<ul>
		
			<li class=''>
				<a class='resized_img' rel='lightbox[351]' id='ipb-attach-url-49-1283795290-19' href="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=49" title="IMG_0449s.JPG -  197.29K,  20"><img src="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/uploads/monthly_01_2007/post-8-1168897932_thumb.jpg" id='ipb-attach-img-49-1283795290-19' style='width:100;height:75' class='attach' width="100" height="75" alt="" /></a>
			</li>
		

			<li class=''>
				<a class='resized_img' rel='lightbox[351]' id='ipb-attach-url-50-1283795290-19' href="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=50" title="IMG_0820s.jpg -  266.01K,  12"><img src="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/uploads/monthly_01_2007/post-8-1168898390_thumb.jpg" id='ipb-attach-img-50-1283795290-19' style='width:100;height:76' class='attach' width="100" height="76" alt="" /></a>
			</li>
		
	</ul>
</div>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 15 Jan 2007 22:03:07 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=92</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>What suspension parts would you buy?</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=93</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I am negotiating with a suspension manufacturer to have NLA parts reproduced. Please answer the poll and then reply with a quantity you will order. Any parts I overlooked, please post and I will add to the poll<br />
<br />
John]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 16 Jan 2007 02:20:36 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=93</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Help on wiring an old Tach to a new ignition</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=94</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Fellas,<br />
<br />
  I've put 12V to my ignition (85 dizzy w/ J-109 ignitors) and get nothing on my tach.  I don't know if it ever worked, as an aftermarket tach was strapped to the steering column, but I'd like to get the original working.  Do y'all know how to test a Mazda tach or integrate it with the newer ignition?  Is there a specific reason for using the rear ignitor over the front?]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 16 Jan 2007 17:56:03 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=94</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Sure is dead.</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=95</link>
		<description>Wow,  this place sure is dead.</description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 16 Jan 2007 21:33:11 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=95</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>RX-4 on Ebay</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=96</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<a href='http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/mazda-rx-4-coupe_W0QQitemZ280070256015QQihZ018QQcategoryZ6316QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/mazda-rx-4-...1QQcmdZViewItem</a><br />
<br />
Not mine but thought I'd post it here in case someone was looking for one.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 17 Jan 2007 02:19:54 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=96</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Traction Bars</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=97</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Hello All <br />
 I would like to install some traction bars on my RX-808. mainly for the old school/hot rod looks. am wonder what lengh should i get, any place where i can get them cheaper or should i make them my self. <br />
 some thing like this! <img src='http://www.vintagerotaries.org/public/style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':P' /> <br />
 <a href='http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2D770501&N=700+4294925130+4294881589+115&autoview=sku' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...mp;autoview=sku</a><br />
<br />
Andres]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 17 Jan 2007 11:50:31 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=97</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Ever Ramdomly find someone you know?</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=98</link>
		<description><![CDATA[In person or on the net.<br />
<br />
I found a member from here on a Garage forum the other day.<br />
<br />
And many years ago we were at disney and found some relatives that we had not seen in many years.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 17 Jan 2007 14:00:34 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=98</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Images</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=99</link>
		<description>Could php be made a valid image tag.  I use a rotater program for my sig and it is not accepted.</description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 17 Jan 2007 14:06:42 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=99</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>rollback</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=100</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Anyone here have a rollback or tow truck?<br />
<br />
I have been thinking about buying a rollback.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 17 Jan 2007 21:14:25 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=100</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>eBay - RX-2 Coupe in Chicago</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=101</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<a href='http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mazda-Mazda-RX2-RX3-RX7-Rotary-12A-Corolla-1974-Mazda-RX2-RX3-RX7-Rotary-12A-Corolla-Corona_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6316QQihZ011QQitemZ320073214781QQrdZ1' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mazda-Mazda...073214781QQrdZ1</a><br />
<br />
It's flair yellow and listed as a 74, so I got all excited.  Don't know what year it is, but it's pre-74 for sure.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Sat, 20 Jan 2007 04:48:05 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=101</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Wanted RX-3 windshield</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=102</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I am looking for a Windshield for my 73 RX-3.<br />
<br />
I have a few interior parts and a complete diff if anyone is interested in a trade. I also have some various emblems for RX-2s and RX-3. <br />
<br />
If you have a windshield please let me know how much.<br />
<br />
Thanks<br />
Allen]]></description>
		<pubDate>Sat, 20 Jan 2007 05:18:50 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=102</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Parts Interchange</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=103</link>
		<description><![CDATA[OK, so my RX-4 needs parts.  I expect that pretty much every RX-n where n &lt; 8 needs parts, in fact.  And it's certainly a good topic for the first thread in this forum!<br />
<br />
In my case I need:<br />
Front struts<br />
Rear shocks<br />
Brake master cylinder<br />
Coolant sensor<br />
Washer fluid bottle<br />
Radiator (maybe)<br />
Distributor (nothing wrong with mine, but I want an electronic one instead of points)<br />
Carb rebuild kit<br />
and probably some other stuff.  This is all I can think of right off hand.<br />
<br />
Any of this match up with 1st gen or other cars?  The distributor might match the GSL-SE, maybe?  I am sure it is not the same, but it might work and, maybe, work better than stock.  I know it will physically fit but what I don't know is whether the timing advance is appropriate.  I'm concerned with performance and fuel economy, not emissions.  If the GSL-SE distributor isn't a good match, is there any way to convert the stock to electronic ignitors instead of points?  And, I would believe the master cylinder, radiator, and coolant sensor all are the same as the SA22C (or I would equally believe they aren't - I don't have one to compare to closely).<br />
<br />
Any ideas?]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 24 Jan 2007 06:33:19 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=103</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Edit post is wonky</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=104</link>
		<description>If you go to edit a post, all the formatting gets converted to HTML tags.  But, if you try to save the edited post, all those HTML tags appear as text in the post.  So whenever you edit, you have to go reformat the whole post.  Bummer.</description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 24 Jan 2007 06:40:19 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=104</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>RCA (negative roll center adjuster)</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=105</link>
		<description><![CDATA[They are now available at <a href='http://www.technotoytuning.com/vehicles.php' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>http://www.technotoytuning.com/vehicles.php</a> ask for Gabe these will fit the RX3 strut casing and first gen RX7. Its not on their web site yet but heres what they look like.<div id='attach_wrap' class='rounded clearfix'>
	<h4></h4>
	<ul>
		
			<li class=''>
				<a class='resized_img' rel='lightbox[473]' id='ipb-attach-url-52-1283795290-21' href="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=52" title="DSC04920.JPG -  150.85K,  19"><img src="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/uploads/monthly_01_2007/post-42-1169703988_thumb.jpg" id='ipb-attach-img-52-1283795290-21' style='width:100;height:75' class='attach' width="100" height="75" alt="" /></a>
			</li>
		
	</ul>
</div>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Thu, 25 Jan 2007 05:46:56 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=105</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Sweet</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=108</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Last weekend<br />
<br />
<img src='http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v228/Hades12/0120071605.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' />]]></description>
		<pubDate>Thu, 25 Jan 2007 16:13:11 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=108</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Taking autobody class</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=109</link>
		<description><![CDATA[This is my first repair<br />
<br />
<img src='http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v228/Hades12/class-stuff/0118072036.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /><br />
<br />
<br />
And this is one of the cars that is getting worked on in class.<br />
<br />
<br />
<img src='http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v228/Hades12/0124071729.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' />]]></description>
		<pubDate>Thu, 25 Jan 2007 16:15:22 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=109</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Holleys and Nitrous</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=110</link>
		<description><![CDATA[has anyone had experience running holleys and nitrous oxide on rotors, specifically for a drag racing application??<br />
<br />
I have an RX-4 block, FC N/A rotors (series 4 type) and E-shaft, extend ported irons and peripheral ported rotor housings.<br />
<br />
the PP housings will probably stay on the bench for this build, does anyone recommend what rotors I should use, the S4 are lighter than the RX-4 type, and possibly a little higher compression. <br />
<br />
the car is unknown yet, but I am searching for a smal,l old datsun, toyota, or mazda, will be partly street driven, but more drag orientated.<br />
<br />
I thought this section needed an actuive thread, well just more activity <img src='http://www.vintagerotaries.org/public/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=';)' />]]></description>
		<pubDate>Fri, 26 Jan 2007 02:11:38 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=110</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>13B pulling tractor</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=111</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Just a little something odd.<br />
<br />
<br />
pics and a vid here<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href='http://www.matthewnanney.com/images/13Bpulltractor/' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>http://www.matthewnanney.com/images/13Bpulltractor/</a><br />
<br />
<br />
<img src='http://www.matthewnanney.com/images/13Bpulltractor/DSC06743small.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' />]]></description>
		<pubDate>Fri, 26 Jan 2007 15:42:30 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=111</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Rx-2 parts for sale</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=112</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Pls. check out my rx-2 parts for sale on ebay . <img src='http://www.vintagerotaries.org/public/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' />]]></description>
		<pubDate>Sun, 28 Jan 2007 05:06:48 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=112</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>SA reborn</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=113</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Alright it looks like this forum is just starting!  We got to get some stuff on here!!  So to get the ball rolling here I am posting about  my 78.  This car has been the biggest love/hate relationship I have ever had.  Back in feb. of 06 I lost the stock 12a in my baby and proceeded to get another motor, which ended up being blown too, got yet another motor (used, my bad), it blew up in a week literally, got ANOTHER motor, this time biult by Rob at Pineapple racing and have been running that since.  I truely love this car and have passed up everything from a 3rd gen to a brand new toyota to keep it.  Now I have a car which i must say is not by any means done, but the most fun by far...<br />
<br />
  I got a oct. 78 build Rx-7 with a weber Ida 48 and 38 mm ventries, also a RB full exhaust, dldfis( if you are not what dldfis is pm me I will send a link that explains it), gilmer pulley kit, Pineapple racing biult 12a with massaged ports, a pineapple racing relocation bracket for the 2nd gen alternator i am using to power everything.  Anyway I will use this forum and nopistons to post the events of this continuing saga, lol.  If anyone has anything to say on what i can add or knows somewhere i can look to find new or better stuff for my baby please feel free to post.  This is a project and a dd(daily driver) so I want to know what i need to do to make this car the best and the simplest that i can without going off the deep end... Cheers<br />
<br />
<a class='resized_img' rel='lightbox[511]' id='ipb-attach-url-59-1283795290-22' href="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=59" title="1475.jpg -  28.65K,  48"><img src="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/uploads/monthly_01_2007/post-90-1170184595_thumb.jpg" id='ipb-attach-img-59-1283795290-22' style='width:100;height:75' class='attach' width="100" height="75" alt="" /></a><a class='resized_img' rel='lightbox[511]' id='ipb-attach-url-56-1283795290-22' href="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=56" title="509.jpg -  27.37K,  34"><img src="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/uploads/monthly_01_2007/post-90-1170184459_thumb.jpg" id='ipb-attach-img-56-1283795290-22' style='width:100;height:75' class='attach' width="100" height="75" alt="" /></a><br />
<a class='resized_img' rel='lightbox[511]' id='ipb-attach-url-58-1283795290-22' href="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=58" title="1459.jpg -  32.68K,  25"><img src="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/uploads/monthly_01_2007/post-90-1170184566_thumb.jpg" id='ipb-attach-img-58-1283795290-22' style='width:100;height:75' class='attach' width="100" height="75" alt="" /></a>  <a class='resized_img' rel='lightbox[511]' id='ipb-attach-url-57-1283795290-22' href="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=57" title="278.jpg -  35.85K,  30"><img src="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/uploads/monthly_01_2007/post-90-1170184486_thumb.jpg" id='ipb-attach-img-57-1283795290-22' style='width:100;height:75' class='attach' width="100" height="75" alt="" /></a><br />
    The new engine bay...........                            This is the old engine bay]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 30 Jan 2007 19:26:05 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=113</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>72 Duece</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=116</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Here is my 72 RX-2<br />
<br />
<a class='resized_img' rel='lightbox[529]' id='ipb-attach-url-61-1283795290-23' href="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=61" title="duece_floor_rust.jpg -  329.78K,  40"><img src="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/uploads/monthly_02_2007/post-13-1170527226_thumb.jpg" id='ipb-attach-img-61-1283795290-23' style='width:100;height:67' class='attach' width="100" height="67" alt="" /></a><br />
<br />
<a class='resized_img' rel='lightbox[529]' id='ipb-attach-url-60-1283795290-23' href="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=60" title="duece_on_jacks.jpg -  553.88K,  52"><img src="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/uploads/monthly_02_2007/post-13-1170527030_thumb.jpg" id='ipb-attach-img-60-1283795290-23' style='width:100;height:67' class='attach' width="100" height="67" alt="" /></a>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Sat, 03 Feb 2007 18:29:51 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=116</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>new seats,to me!</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=117</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Hello All<br />
  After searching everywhere and not having the guts to pay the mula for the Sparco Torino I wanted, i lucked out, found a set of 05 Nissan 350Z seats. <br />
Like new condition, they were on Craiglist for 10minutes when I found them and for $100.00 I had no choice. kind of heavy but they look good to me. <br />
  Am working on the brakets and this is what I came up with. 1/8 top and bottom rails and 2" rise with a 3/16 plate. I think the material is an overkill but it should be pretty sturdy.<br />
any suggestions????<br />
Andres<br />
<a href='http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p290/RotorRican/CIMG0081.jpg' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'><img src='http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p290/RotorRican/th_CIMG0081.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /></a><br />
<a href='http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p290/RotorRican/CIMG0079.jpg' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'><img src='http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p290/RotorRican/th_CIMG0079.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /></a><br />
<a href='http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p290/RotorRican/CIMG0084.jpg' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'><img src='http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p290/RotorRican/th_CIMG0084.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /></a><br />
<a href='http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p290/RotorRican/CIMG0075.jpg' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'><img src='http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p290/RotorRican/th_CIMG0075.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /></a><br />
<a href='http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p290/RotorRican/CIMG0074.jpg' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'><img src='http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p290/RotorRican/th_CIMG0074.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /></a>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Sun, 04 Feb 2007 01:45:15 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=117</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Help us design the graphics for the new Vintage Rotaries</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=121</link>
		<description><![CDATA[As the new Vintage Rotaries community grows, we're working hard to get the site in order.  I've personally been focusing on documentation (particularly for REPU and all wiring), while others are working on the financial support, server upkeep and module upgrades, etc.  What we lack is someonne willing to contribute to the graphic layout of the site.  Whether it's buttons and icons, overall skins or sponsor banners, we could use help across the board.<br />
<br />
If you have a gift for these things or know someone who does, please help us spread the word, and PM me or another Admin or Mod.<br />
<br />
Thanks, guys.<br />
<br />
Crit]]></description>
		<pubDate>Thu, 08 Feb 2007 02:19:57 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=121</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>What to do next?</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=122</link>
		<description><![CDATA[The new Vintage Rotaries community is in a unique situation. While the site is small, we have the opportunity to make changes more quickly and decide just how we want to best serve our fellow rotorhead. With that in mind, what would you like to see better-developed?<br />
<br />
And please, if you click "Somethig Else", make sure to post a reply and tell us what it is - we're not mindreaders.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Thu, 08 Feb 2007 02:22:25 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=122</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>My 73 rx2</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=127</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Planning to swap out my 13B Bridgeport to a turbo set up. 3 rotor or 2 rotors? Ahhh!! I got Rotor Syndrome. <img src='http://www.vintagerotaries.org/public/style_emoticons/default/blink.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':blink:' /><div id='attach_wrap' class='rounded clearfix'>
	<h4></h4>
	<ul>
		
			<li class=''>
				<a class='resized_img' rel='lightbox[568]' id='ipb-attach-url-62-1283795290-24' href="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=62" title="my_73_rx2.jpg -  197.53K,  74"><img src="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/uploads/monthly_02_2007/post-83-1170989733_thumb.jpg" id='ipb-attach-img-62-1283795290-24' style='width:100;height:63' class='attach' width="100" height="63" alt="" /></a>
			</li>
		
	</ul>
</div>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Fri, 09 Feb 2007 03:12:29 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=127</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>forum problem?</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=128</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Hi, <br />
 <br />
it seems that you have an error in your login feature of your forum. Everytimes if I want to stay logged in IÂ´ll be automatically logged out within 1 minute. <br />
IÂ´ve already checked my firefox settings and they are all okay. <br />
 <br />
Do other members have the same problem? <br />
_________________ <br />
<a href='http://www.bmanagement.info' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>homepage 1</a> <br />
<a href='http://www.greataccess.info' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>homepage 2</a>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Fri, 09 Feb 2007 07:42:09 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=128</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Sweet Duece</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=135</link>
		<description><![CDATA[with all credit to the original photographer and website, etc...<br />
<br />
<a href='http://www.japanesenostalgiccar.com/picture.cgi?section=events&article=jccs2006&file=jccs2006=422.jpg&atitle=2006%20Japanese%20Classic%20Car%20Show&maxpics=469' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>http://www.japanesenostalgiccar.com/pictur...amp;maxpics=469</a><div id='attach_wrap' class='rounded clearfix'>
	<h4></h4>
	<ul>
		
			<li class=''>
				<a class='resized_img' rel='lightbox[581]' id='ipb-attach-url-63-1283795290-25' href="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=63" title="Green_RX2.jpg -  156.49K,  44"><img src="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/uploads/monthly_02_2007/post-13-1171121201_thumb.jpg" id='ipb-attach-img-63-1283795290-25' style='width:100;height:67' class='attach' width="100" height="67" alt="" /></a>
			</li>
		
	</ul>
</div>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Sat, 10 Feb 2007 15:27:48 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=135</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>RX2 Suspension info</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=136</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Just got a copy of Bill Carrools RX2 Handbook, Good info. I may take it apart to scan. Dunno yet<br />
<br />
<br />
<a class='resized_img' rel='lightbox[584]' id='ipb-attach-url-64-1283795290-25' href="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=64" title="RX2_handbook.jpg -  162.23K,  44"><img src="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/uploads/monthly_02_2007/post-13-1171145678_thumb.jpg" id='ipb-attach-img-64-1283795290-25' style='width:75;height:100' class='attach' width="75" height="100" alt="" /></a><br />
<br />
<a class='resized_img' rel='lightbox[584]' id='ipb-attach-url-65-1283795290-25' href="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=65" title="rx2_strut_breakdown.jpg -  88.71K,  52"><img src="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/uploads/monthly_02_2007/post-13-1171145753_thumb.jpg" id='ipb-attach-img-65-1283795290-25' style='width:100;height:75' class='attach' width="100" height="75" alt="" /></a><br />
<br />
<a class='resized_img' rel='lightbox[584]' id='ipb-attach-url-66-1283795290-25' href="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=66" title="rx2_front_susp.jpg -  70.5K,  41"><img src="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/uploads/monthly_02_2007/post-13-1171145818_thumb.jpg" id='ipb-attach-img-66-1283795290-25' style='width:100;height:75' class='attach' width="100" height="75" alt="" /></a><br />
<br />
<a class='resized_img' rel='lightbox[584]' id='ipb-attach-url-67-1283795290-25' href="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=67" title="rx2_tie_rod.jpg -  87.09K,  37"><img src="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/uploads/monthly_02_2007/post-13-1171145884_thumb.jpg" id='ipb-attach-img-67-1283795290-25' style='width:100;height:75' class='attach' width="100" height="75" alt="" /></a>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Sat, 10 Feb 2007 22:20:25 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=136</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>My RX3</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=138</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Here it is<br />
<br />
<br />
<a class='resized_img' rel='lightbox[585]' id='ipb-attach-url-68-1283795290-25' href="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=68" title="rx3_side.jpg -  35.67K,  38"><img src="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/uploads/monthly_02_2007/post-13-1171157854_thumb.jpg" id='ipb-attach-img-68-1283795290-25' style='width:100;height:76' class='attach' width="100" height="76" alt="" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
<a class='resized_img' rel='lightbox[585]' id='ipb-attach-url-69-1283795290-25' href="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=69" title="rx3_rear.jpg -  37.47K,  25"><img src="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/uploads/monthly_02_2007/post-13-1171158441_thumb.jpg" id='ipb-attach-img-69-1283795290-25' style='width:100;height:76' class='attach' width="100" height="76" alt="" /></a>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Sun, 11 Feb 2007 01:47:41 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=138</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>The RX-4</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=139</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<img src='http://www.vintagerotaries.org/public/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=';)' /> <br />
<br />
<br />
<a class='resized_img' rel='lightbox[586]' id='ipb-attach-url-70-1283795290-25' href="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=70" title="IMG_0427_edited_1.jpg -  338.76K,  39"><img src="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/uploads/monthly_02_2007/post-13-1171158757_thumb.jpg" id='ipb-attach-img-70-1283795290-25' style='width:100;height:67' class='attach' width="100" height="67" alt="" /></a>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Sun, 11 Feb 2007 01:53:28 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=139</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Joined the club</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=143</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Thanks Neal!!!1<br />
<br />
<br />
Cant wait to get it]]></description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 12 Feb 2007 02:16:24 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=143</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Stuff on ebay</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=147</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Hello All <br />
 I got some stuff on ebay, no reserve!<br />
<a href='http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mazda-RX-4-RX-3-RX-2-center-caps_W0QQitemZ160084481100QQihZ006QQcategoryZ6763QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mazda-RX-4-...1QQcmdZViewItem</a><br />
<a href='http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mazda-RX-4-RX-3-RX-2-Badges_W0QQitemZ160084479259QQihZ006QQcategoryZ6763QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mazda-RX-4-...1QQcmdZViewItem</a><br />
<a href='http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mazda-RX-4-Stuff_W0QQitemZ160084477913QQihZ006QQcategoryZ6763QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mazda-RX-4-...1QQcmdZViewItem</a><br />
<a href='http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mazda-RX-4-RX-3-RX-2-side-markers_W0QQitemZ160084471922QQihZ006QQcategoryZ6763QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mazda-RX-4-...1QQcmdZViewItem</a><br />
<a href='http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mazda-RX-4-RX-3-RX-2-Horn-Button_W0QQitemZ160084470156QQihZ006QQcategoryZ6763QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mazda-RX-4-...1QQcmdZViewItem</a><br />
<a href='http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mazda-RX-4-RX-3-RX-2-Rear-View-Mirror_W0QQitemZ160084468245QQihZ006QQcategoryZ6763QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow'>http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mazda-RX-4-...1QQcmdZViewItem</a>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 12 Feb 2007 23:46:37 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=147</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>The Thrill is Back!!!</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=148</link>
		<description><![CDATA[<a class='resized_img' rel='lightbox[]' id='ipb-attach-url-73-0-26511300-1283795290' href="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=73" title="thrill1.jpg -  312.03K,  47"><img src="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/uploads/monthly_02_2007/post-13-1171673544_thumb.jpg" id='ipb-attach-img-73-0-26511300-1283795290' style='width:100;height:52' class='attach' width="100" height="52" alt="" /></a><a class='resized_img' rel='lightbox[]' id='ipb-attach-url-73-0-26525300-1283795290' href="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=73" title="thrill1.jpg -  312.03K,  47"><img src="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/uploads/monthly_02_2007/post-13-1171673544_thumb.jpg" id='ipb-attach-img-73-0-26525300-1283795290' style='width:100;height:52' class='attach' width="100" height="52" alt="" /></a>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Sat, 17 Feb 2007 00:53:49 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=148</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>What rear end to use?</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=149</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Hello All<br />
 question, <img src='http://www.vintagerotaries.org/public/style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':rolleyes:' /> am just planning for the future, am not ready to do this yet, i just want to put my money on the right place!<br />
      what is my best choice as far rear axle to use. my plans are to have a daily driver with some weekend drag, on the strip of course! <br />
  Street ported and eventually a turbo. HP250-300!! who know!!! no sure <img src='http://www.vintagerotaries.org/public/style_emoticons/default/blink.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':blink:' /> <br />
 I got on hand a....<br />
 74 RX-4 drum to drum <br />
 75 808 drum to drum <br />
 73 RX-3 drum to drum <br />
 85 GSL-SE disk to disk, all from a stick shift trannies.<br />
I believe the SE is the best choice, but it will need to be narrow it, or should put my money on a ford 9" ?  i read the 9" is an overkill but i just want to do it once. <br />
any suggestion welcome,<br />
Andres]]></description>
		<pubDate>Sat, 17 Feb 2007 01:26:02 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=149</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Sad RX2</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=150</link>
		<description><![CDATA[The only one I have found locally in the boneyards<br />
<br />
<a class='resized_img' rel='lightbox[640]' id='ipb-attach-url-74-1283795290-27' href="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=74" title="sad_rx2_A.jpg -  167.45K,  125"><img src="http://www.vintagerotaries.org/uploads/monthly_02_2007/post-13-1171677004_thumb.jpg" id='ipb-attach-img-74-1283795290-27' style='width:100;height:75' class='attach' width="100" height="75" alt="" /></a>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Sat, 17 Feb 2007 01:51:10 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=150</guid>
	</item>
</channel>
</rss>